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Briefly about Ganja

Ganja is the “City of Treasures”, and not only because its name in several eastern languages is interpreted as “treasure”. But also because the spirit of antiquity has been preserved here to this day, the atmosphere of an ancient city that has survived many invasions and seen the rise and fall of great dynasties. Ganja is located at the foot of the Lesser Caucasus ridge, just on the Great Silk Road. Fortresses, mausoleums, churches, ruins of palaces - the legendary antiquity emanates from everywhere.

Modern Ganja still remembers how it was called Kirovabad and was the site of violent clashes during the Karabakh conflict. But, remembering the past, the city does not forget about the present day: there are magnificent parks with ponds and fountains, the squares are sparkling with cleanliness, and the spreading branches of plane trees provide beneficial shade on sunny days.

What to see in Ganja

The main historical ensemble of Ganja is the ensemble of Sheikh Bahauddin, which includes the Juma Mosque, caravanserai and Chokyak Hammam. The first in this trinity was a mosque (1606), followed by a bathhouse with two connecting halls, and after that a caravanserai, where the museum of the poetess Meskheti Ganjavi is located.

2 things to do in Ganja

Leave your mark on one of the cobblestone streets of Ganja, along which Katran Tabrizi, Abul-Ula, Feleki, Khagani, Mehseti and other “stars” of the Azerbaijani Renaissance walked.
Take a bite from the multi-ton cake prepared in honor of the birthday of Azerbaijani President Ilham Aliyev (December 24). Note that every year the length of the cake increases by 1 meter and is equal to the age of the president. At this rate, by 2021 its size will be 60 meters!

Population growth dynamics:

1897 - 33.6 thousand
1939 - 99 thousand
1959 - 136 thousand
1972 - 195 thousand
2003 - 302 thousand
2004 - 320 thousand
2008 - 397 thousand

National composition: Azerbaijanis make up about 98% of the population, Russians, Ukrainians, Tatars, etc. - 2%

Story

The emergence of the city
Like other cities of modern Azerbaijan (Nakhichevan, Sheki, Shemakha), Ganja arose as a settlement due to its favorable geographical location at the intersection of ancient caravan roads.

According to the anonymous “History of Derbent”, Ganja was founded in 859 by Mohammad ben Khaled ben Yazid ben Mazyadom from the Yazid family of Shirvan, who ruled Adurbadgan, Arran and Armenia during the time of Caliph al-Mutawakil, and was so named because of the treasury located there. Mohammad as the founder of Ganja is also mentioned in “The History of the Country of Alaunk” by Movses Kalankatuatsi:

“After another two years, Khazr Patgos came, a merciless and ferocious man, but he died that same year. But his son came and conquered the country with the sword, set many churches on fire, captured the inhabitants and left for Baghdad. Then he again came from there by royal command and, using funds from the treasury, built the city of Gandzak in the Gavar (district) of Arshakashen in the year two hundred and ninety-five (Armenian calendar).

For a long time there was the residence of the Catholicos of Caucasian Albania (Agvanka) in Gandzak.

At the beginning of the 7th century and in the 8th century. Eastern Transcaucasia was repeatedly raided, as a result of which Ganja suffered significantly. In the first half of the 7th century. Ganja was destroyed by the Persians, and in the second half by the Arabs. At the end of the 7th century. the city was turned into a battle arena between Arabs and Khazars.

Ganja begins to play an important role in international trade, socio-economic and cultural life of the country. Trade and craft occupied an important place in the life of the city. There was economic potential here for the development of crafts. Iron, copper, alum and other mines located near Ganja supplied artisans with raw materials.

As Ganja formed as the capital of the country, special attention was paid to strengthening the military power of the city. Already during this period, fortress walls were built and ditches were dug.

In the IX-X centuries. In connection with the weakening of the Arab Caliphate, the territory of modern Azerbaijan was part of the feudal states of the Shirvanshahs, Sajids, Sallarids, and Ravvadids.

In the middle of the 10th century. Ganja, which was under the rule of the Salaridis, became the capital of the Shadadites. During the reign of Fadlun I (895-1030), Ganja became even stronger. The Shaddadids built a fortress, palaces, bridges, caravanserais here and began minting money. A new, stronger fortress was built around the city.

In 1063 the famous gates of Ganja were created.

As Ganja turned into a major center, its territory expanded, and new commercial and industrial districts were built. Silk and products made from it have won the sympathy of buyers not only at local markets, but also abroad. Since 1918, the city became part of the Republic of Azerbaijan.

Seljuk Turks
In the middle of the 11th century. Azerbaijan was subjected to Seljuk invasions. After the capture of Tabriz, Toghrul I (1038-1068) moved towards Ganja in 1054. The ruler of Ganja Shavir agreed to become a vassal of Togrul Bey. However, the Seljuk invasions did not stop. In the 70s of the 11th century. Fadlun III, the ruler of the Shadadites, seeing the senselessness of the war, surrendered, but after some time, taking advantage of the opportunity, he returned to power. In 1086, the Seljuk ruler Malik Shah (1072-1092) sent his commander Bugay to Ganja. Despite fierce resistance from the local population, the Seljuks captured the city. During the war, the ruler of Ganja, Fadlun III, was captured and thus ended the reign of the Shadadite dynasty, which ruled for more than 100 years.

Malik Shah entrusted the rule of Ganja to his son Ghiyas ad-din Tapar. Giyas ad-din Muhammad Tapar, even after his election as Sultan (1105-1117), still remained one of the main residents of the Seljuk rulers of Ganja.

In the first half of the 12th century. Ganja was invaded by Georgians several times; in response, Seljuk troops invaded Georgia and plundered it.

Another event associated with Ganja was a huge earthquake that occurred on September 25, 1139 and destroyed the city, which was therefore moved to another place. As a result of the earthquake, a number of dammed lakes were formed in this area - Gek-gel, Maral-gel, Dzheyran-gel, Ordek-gel, Zaligelyu, Aggel, Garagel and Shamlygel. The ruins of ancient Ganja are located seven kilometers from the modern city, downstream of the river.

Taking advantage of the destruction of the city and the absence of a ruler, the Georgian king Demetrius attacked the city, seized many trophies and took with him the famous gates of Ganja, which are still kept in the courtyard of the Kelat monastery in Georgia.

With the formation of the Atabek state (see Iranian Azerbaijan), Ganja became the residence of the Atabek ruler of Arran.

Beginning of the XII-XIII centuries. can be called the heyday of Ganja, the second capital of the Atabek state, because thanks to the fact that its products became known far beyond the borders of the country, it rose to the level of the “mother of Arran cities.” The fabric that was produced here and was called “Ganja silk” was highly appreciated in the markets of neighboring countries and the Middle East.

Between Russia and Iran
In the 18th century Ganja is the center of the Ganja Khanate.

At the end of 1803, the Russian detachment of Prince P.D. entered against Ganja. Tsitsianova (up to 2 thousand people). Javad Khan Ganja refused to Tsitsianov’s demand to submit. On the approaches to Ganja, he gave the Russians battle, but was defeated and fled to the fortress, killing 250 people. killed; the Russians lost 70 people.

On January 3, 1804, at 5:30 a.m., Tsitsianov’s troops attacked Ganja in two columns. In addition to the Russians, up to 700 Azerbaijani militia and volunteers from other khanates - opponents of Javad Khan - took part in the assault. Ganja was a very powerful fortress. It was surrounded by double walls (external - adobe and internal - stone), the height of which reached 8 meters. The walls were reinforced with 6 towers. On the third attempt, the Russians managed to overcome the walls and break into the fortress, and Javad Khan died in battle on the walls. By noon, Ganja was taken. The Ganja Khanate was annexed to Russia, and Ganja itself was renamed Elizavetpol (in honor of Empress Elizaveta Alekseevna, the wife of Alexander I.

This led to the Russian-Iranian War of 1804-1813. The Iranian army was several times larger than the Russian army in Transcaucasia, but significantly inferior to them in military art, combat training and organization. The main fighting took place on both sides of Lake Sevan in two directions - Erivan and Ganja, where the main roads to Tiflis (Tbilisi) passed.

In October 1813, Iran was forced to conclude the Gulistan Peace Treaty, according to which it recognized the annexation of Dagestan and Northern Azerbaijan to Russia.

Since 1868 Elizavetpol has been the center of the Elizavetpol province.

In 1883 it was connected by railway with Baku, Tbilisi and Batumi.

XX century
According to data for 1892, there were 25,758 inhabitants in Ganja (of which 13,392 were Muslim Tatars (Azerbaijanis), 10,524 Armenians). There were 13 mosques, 6 Armenian churches and 2 Russian Orthodox churches in the city. The main Jumaa Mosque (Jaami Ganja), built by Shah Abbas in 1620, is crowned with a huge dome and surrounded by many cells and rooms for Muslim students. Of the churches, the oldest is the Church of St. Hovhannes Mkrtich (St. John the Baptist) - 1633; The Armenian cathedral, 20 m high, was completed in 1869.

At the beginning of the 20th century, 6 Armenian Apostolic churches, 2 Russian Orthodox churches and 13 mosques functioned in the city. Of the surviving Armenian apostolic churches, the Church of St. Hovhannes Mkrtich has the most respectable age, on the southern wall of which, under the sundial, an inscription was carved, certifying that under Catholicos Hovhannes in 1633 this church of St. Hovhannes Mkrtich (John the Baptist) was built.

Ganja of the first half of the twentieth century is an unusually beautiful city with wide, planned streets, shaded by Ganja plane trees, famous throughout the Caucasus. From behind the spreading, centuries-old giants with trunks several human girths, the peculiar architecture of the houses peeked out. Houses in Ganja were predominantly two-story, with obligatory arched gates, in which an arched gate was carved. The presence of courtyards was also a mandatory attribute of Ganja houses. Almost all types of fruits known in the Caucasus grew in the gardens, but Ganja persimmons and pomegranates were especially famous.

In the fall of 1905, bloody clashes took place in the city between Armenians and Tatars (see Armenian-Tatar massacres of 1905-1906, as a result of which the population was divided: Muslims concentrated on the left, Armenians on the right bank of the river. There were interethnic clashes in 1918-1920 gg.

On January 22, 1918, at the Shamkhor station, not far from Ganja, armed bands of nationalists killed and wounded thousands of Russian army soldiers returning from the Caucasian front to Russia.

In June 1918, the first Musavat government of Azerbaijan moved Ganja from Tiflis, in particular, restoring the historical name of the city; it remained in Ganja until September, when it moved to Baku, taken by the Turks.

On the night of May 25-26, 1920, a Musavatist rebellion was launched here, which was liquidated within a week.

During Soviet times, Ganja (Kirovabad) became the second industrial and cultural center of Azerbaijan after Baku.

On November 22, 1988, Armenian pogroms began in the city, accompanied by real battles on the borders of the Armenian quarter. After this, the many thousands of ethnic Armenian population of the city were completely evacuated to Armenia, their homes and property were looted.

Climate

Average annual temperature - +13.4 C°
Average annual wind speed - 2.5 m/s
Average annual air humidity - 68%

Ganja, or Ganja(Azerb. Gəncə́, in 1804-1918 - Elizavetpol, in 1918-1935 - Ganja, in 1935-1989 - Kirovabad) is the second largest and third most populous city in Azerbaijan.

Ganja is located in Transcaucasia. Until 1804, the city was known as the capital of the Ganja Khanate, and subsequently became the center of the Elizavetpol district (1840-1929), the Elizavetpol province (1867-1929) and the Ganja region (1952-1953).

Geography

It is located on the Ganja-Kazakh lowland at the northeastern foot of the Lesser Caucasus, on the Ganjachay River in the Kura basin. Center of the historical region of Arran. Railway station on the Baku - Tbilisi line, airport.

Ganja as an administrative territory includes two urban districts ( Kapazsky- 178,500 inhabitants, Nizami- 164,500 inhabitants) and an urban settlement Adjikent with the relevant local authorities.

Story

The first centuries of the city's existence

Ganja fortress. 19th century photograph

Ganja arose as a settlement due to its favorable geographical location on the Great Silk Road. The post-Mongol historian Hamd-Allah Mostavfi testifies that the Arab city of Ganja was founded in 659-660. (that is, during the first Arab invasions of eastern Transcaucasia), but does not provide details. According to the anonymous “History of Shirvan and Derbent” (“Derbend-name”), Ganja was founded in 859 by Mohammad ben Khaled ben Yazid ben Mazyad from the Arab Yazid family of Shirvan, who ruled Azerbaijan (historical region in the south of the Araks River, mainly in the north west of modern Iran), Arran and Armenia during the time of Caliph al-Mutawakil, and so named because of the treasury discovered there. The role of Mohammad ben Khaled as the founder (who rather re-founded the city) is confirmed by the 10th-century Armenian historian Movses Dashurantsi, who writes that the son of Khazr Patgos built Ganjak in the Arshakashen district in 295 (846-847 AD) according to the Armenian chronology. The origin of the Islamic name of the city is associated with the Pahlavi word “Gandz” (“Janza” - among the Arabs, “Gandza” - among the Georgians, “Gandz” - among the Armenians), which meant “treasure, treasure”, “place for storing crops”. The Persian name "Ganja" or "Hansa" indicates the existence of an older, pre-Islamic city. Hence Ganja bears the nickname “City of Treasures”.

One of the evidence of the age of Ganja can be considered the mausoleum of Jomard Gassab, who lived during the reign of the fourth Caliph Ali ibn Abu Talib (656-661). In the ancient territory of the city (Old Ganja), the remains of fortress walls, towers, bridges (XII - early XIII centuries) were discovered. To the northeast of Old Ganja there is the cult complex Goy-Imam (or Imamzade: a mausoleum of the 14th-17th centuries, built in the 17th century with buildings of mosques and tombs). The Juma Mosque (1606, architect Bahaaddin) and domed residential buildings (XVII-XVIII centuries) have been preserved on the territory of the city. Ganja is beginning to play an important role in international trade, socio-economic and cultural life of the region. Trade and craft occupied an important place in the life of the city. There was economic potential here for the development of crafts. Iron, copper, alum and other mines located near Ganja supplied artisans with raw materials. As Ganja formed as the capital of the country, special attention was paid to strengthening the military power of the city. Already during this period, fortress walls were built and ditches were dug. In the IX-X centuries. In connection with the weakening of the Arab Caliphate, part of the territory of modern Azerbaijan was included in the feudal states of the Shirvanshah, Sajid, Salarid, and Ravvadid dynasties.

In the middle of the 10th century, Ganja, which was under the rule of the Iranian Salarid dynasty, became the capital of the Kurdish Shaddadid dynasty. During the reign of Fadlun I (895-1030), Ganja became even stronger. The Shaddadids built a fortress, palaces, bridges, caravanserais here and began minting money. A new, stronger fortress was built around the city. In 1063, the famous gates of Ganja were created. As Ganja turned into a major center, its territory expanded, and new commercial and industrial districts were built. Silk and products made from it have won the sympathy of buyers not only at local markets, but also abroad.

From the Seljuk conquest to the Mongol invasion

In the middle of the 11th century, Arran was subject to Seljuk invasions. After capturing Tabriz, Toghrul I moved towards Ganja in 1054. The ruler of Ganja, Emir Shavur from the Sheddadid dynasty, agreed to become a vassal of Toghrul-bek. However, the Seljuk invasions did not stop. In the 70s of the 11th century, Shavur's descendant Fadlun III, seeing the senselessness of the war, surrendered, but after some time, taking advantage of the opportunity, he returned to power. In 1086, the Seljuk ruler Malik Shah sent his commander Bugai to Ganja. Despite fierce resistance from the local population, the Seljuks captured the city. During the war, the ruler of Ganja, Fadlun III, was captured, thus ending the reign of the Shaddadite dynasty, which ruled for more than 100 years. Malik Shah entrusted the rule of Ganja to his son Ghiyas ad-din Tapar. Giyas ad-din Muhammad Tapar, even after his election as Sultan, still remained one of the main residents of the Seljuk rulers of Ganja.

The 11th century gates of Ganja, removed after the city was captured by the Georgian army. Now kept in the Gelati Monastery, near Kutaisi

In the first half of the 12th century. Ganja was invaded by Georgians several times and became a vassal of Georgia until the Mongol invasion. Another event associated with Ganja was a huge earthquake that occurred on September 30, 1139 and destroyed the city, which was therefore moved to another place. As a result of the earthquake, a number of dammed lakes were formed in this area - Goygol, Maralgol, Dzheirangol, Ordekgol, Zaligelyu, Aggol, Garagol and Shamlygol. The ruins of ancient Ganja are located seven kilometers from the modern city, downstream of the river. Taking advantage of the destruction of the city and the absence of a ruler, the Georgian king Demeter I attacked the city, seized many trophies and took with him the famous gates of Ganja, which are still kept in the courtyard of the Gelati monastery in Georgia. With the formation of the Ildegizid State, Ganja became the residence of the Ildegizid ruler of Arran. In 1225, Ganja was captured from the Ildegizids by the Khorezmshah Jalal ad-Din and ruled it until his death in 1231. Jelaleddin's people committed all kinds of arbitrariness and violence, and as for Christians, an order was given to forcibly transfer them to Islam. The result of these violence was the uprising of 1231 led by the artisan Bender. The rebels killed Jalaluddin's garrison, but in the end the uprising was suppressed, 30 of its leaders were executed, and Bender himself was quartered.

Finds of Byzantine coins are known on the territory of Ganja.

XII-XIII centuries can be called the heyday of Ganja - the second capital of the Atabey state. The fabric that was produced here and was called “Ganja silk” was highly appreciated in the markets of neighboring countries and the Middle East. Ganja at this time retained its former predominantly Iranian population and was one of the centers of Persian culture. Such outstanding classics of Persian poetry as Nizami Ganjavi and Mehseti Ganjavi worked here.

According to Kirakos Gandzaketsi, “This populous city was full of Persians, and there were few Christians there. [The Persians] were extremely hostile towards Christ and his worshipers, despised and blasphemed the cross and the church, humiliated and reviled priests and clergy.". This is precisely how the Armenian historian explains the catastrophe that befell the city - the Mongol-Tatar invasion.

Capture of the city by the Tatar-Mongols

Soon after the death of Jalaladdin, in 1235, Ganja was taken by the Tatar-Mongols. According to the Armenian historian Kirakos Gandzaketsi, the Mongols destroyed the wall with machines in different places.

But none of the enemies [immediately] entered the city; in full armor they besieged it for a week. When the inhabitants saw that the city had been captured by the enemy, they each locked themselves in their own houses and set fire to their homes along with themselves, so as not to fall into the hands of the enemy; others burned everything that could be burned, remaining themselves [alive]. At the sight of this, the enemies became even more enraged, used swords and put everyone to the sword: men, women, and children. And none of them escaped, with the exception of a small detachment of well-armed warriors in full equipment, who broke through part of the wall at night and escaped, and a small group of the mob, who were detained and tortured so that they would show where the treasures were hidden. Later, some [of them] were killed, some were taken prisoner, and they themselves began to rummage through the ashes of the houses and took everything they found that was hidden. (...) And the city remained so deserted and destroyed for four years, then an order was given to restore it. And little by little [people] began to gather in it and began to build, but the city wall was not erected.

As part of the Safavid state. Ganja Khanate

In the XVI-XVIII centuries. Ganja was part of the Safavid state, being the center of the Karabakh beylerbekdom. Shah Tahmasp I appointed Shahverdi Sultan from the Qajar tribe as the first beylerbek. Representatives of this family, the Ziyad-oglu dynasty, ruled Ganja throughout the reign of the Safavids. Shahverdi ruled not only Ganja and Karabakh (with Nagorno-Karabakh remaining in the hands of its Armenian rulers), but his possessions also included Shamshadil and Kazakh. At the end of the 17th century, Ottoman traveler Evliya Celebi counted 6,000 houses in the city. The population of the city was diverse in ethnic and religious senses: if within the city walls the majority were Azerbaijani Turks and Persians, then outside the walls there were vast Armenian suburbs (faubourg des Armeniens, according to a French source, “Armenian settlements outside the city” - in Russian) Number of Armenians was so great that Israel Oriya’s plans to restore the independence of Armenia envisaged recruiting 15,000 Armenian soldiers in Ganja

In 1723, the Ottoman army approached Ganja and launched an assault on it in October, which ended in failure. However, the Armenian suburbs were destroyed. The surviving Armenians fled under the protection of the Armenian army to Nagorno-Karabakh. Ganja was deserted, at the beginning of 1726 a Russian spy reported that “Nowadays in Genzh there are 5 or 6 families of infidels from Genzha, and 50 families of Armenians, and other infidels went to Ardeville and to different cities, and the Armenians went to Sognagi (that is, to Karabakh).”..

Subsequently, Ganja regained its population, and after the death of Nadir Shah it became the capital of the semi-independent Ganja Khanate. A representative of the Ziyadogly clan that ruled Ganja for a long time, Shahverdi Khan became the Khan of Ganja. Ganja became the center of the Khanate. In the 80s of the 18th century, during the reign of Javad Khan, the Ganja Khanate strengthened significantly. It pursued an independent foreign policy. The Khanate had its own mint in Ganja.

However, in 1803 he encountered Russia, which at that time entered into a war with Persia, whose troops invaded Eastern Transcaucasia. The command of the Russian army considered Ganja “the key to the northern provinces of Persia.” General Tsitsianov wrote that the Ganja fortress, due to its favorable geographical location, occupied an important place in Azerbaijan and therefore Russia’s primary task was to capture this fortress. Tsitsianov several times offered Javad Khan to voluntarily surrender and was refused each time.

Monuments

Mausoleum “Imamzade” of the 14th century in Ganja

Ganja fortress. 16th century

Bathhouse of the 16th century

Armenian Church of St. Sarkis, 16th century

Mausoleum of the last khan of the Ganja Khanate - Javad Khan in Ganja

Palace ruins

Armenian Church of St. Hovhannes, 1633

Khan's Palace

As part of Russia

Taking the Ganja fortress by storm on January 16 (4), 1804, − A. Charlemagne (1826-1901)

On November 20, 1803, Tsitsianov headed through Tiflis towards Ganja with a relatively small detachment (a little over 2 thousand people), and in December he approached the fortress. After appropriate preparation, on January 15, 1804, at 5 a.m., he gave the order to attack it. Tsitsianov’s troops attacked Ganja in two columns. In addition to the Russian troops, up to 700 volunteer militias and Armenians from other khanates - opponents of Javad Khan - took part in the assault. Ganja was surrounded by double walls (external - adobe and internal - stone), the height of which reached 8 meters. The walls were reinforced with 6 towers. On the third attempt, the besiegers managed to overcome the walls and break into the fortress, and Javad Khan died in the battle on the walls. By noon, Ganja was taken. The Ganja Khanate was annexed to Russia, and Ganja itself was renamed Elizavetpol in 1804 (in honor of Empress Elizaveta Alekseevna, the wife of Alexander I). Over time, the city began to be pronounced as Elisavetpol. In October 1813, Persia was forced to conclude the Treaty of Gulistan, according to which it recognized the annexation of the Ganja Khanate to Russia.

After the conquest of the Khanate, commandant control was introduced in it: all power, both military and civil, was concentrated in the hands of the commandant. In 1806, a district court was created in Elizavetpol, and in 1824 - a police department. The latter caused discontent among the population due to the arbitrariness and extortion of the police. In 1840, the commandant system was eliminated, Elizavetpol became the center of the county and, as such, became part of the Georgian-Imereti province. In 1868, the city became the center of the newly formed Elisavetpol province. In 1883 it was connected by railway with Baku, Tiflis and Batum.

According to data for 1892, there were 25,758 inhabitants in Elisavetpol, of which 13,392 were Muslim Tatars (Azerbaijanis), 10,524 Armenians. There were 13 mosques, 6 Armenian churches and 2 Russian Orthodox churches, one Lutheran church in the city. The main Juma Mosque (Jaami Ganja), built by Shah Abbas I in 1620, is topped with a huge dome and surrounded by many cells and rooms for Muslim students.

XX century

Elisavetpol of the first half of the 20th century is a city with predominantly two-story houses, with obligatory arched gates, in which an arched gate is cut out. The presence of courtyards was also a mandatory attribute of Ganja houses. Almost all types of fruits known in the Caucasus grew in the gardens; Ganja persimmons and pomegranates were especially famous.

In the fall of 1905, bloody clashes took place in the city between Armenians and Azerbaijanis, then called Azerbaijani Tatars, as a result of which the population was divided: Muslims concentrated on the left bank, Armenians on the right bank of the river. Interethnic clashes also occurred in 1918-1920. In June 1918, the first Musavat government of Azerbaijan moved to Ganja from Tiflis, restoring the historical name of the city. It remained here until September, when it moved to Baku, taken by the Turks. On May 1, 1920, units of the 11th Red Army entered the city. On the night of May 25-26, an anti-Soviet uprising broke out in the city, which was suppressed within a week.

During Soviet times, Ganja (Kirovabad) became the second industrial and cultural center of Azerbaijan after Baku. After the outbreak of the conflict over Nagorno-Karabakh on November 21, 1988, Armenian pogroms began in the city. Local Armenians, taking advantage of the compactness of their residence, organized a two-week defense. Thanks to the efforts of the Soviet army, large-scale bloodshed was stopped. The Armenian population was forced to leave the city.

Ganja from A to Z: map, hotels, attractions, restaurants, entertainment. Shopping, shops. Photos, videos and reviews about Ganja.

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Ganja, as a fabulously beautiful city, could not appear just like that. According to legend, it was founded on the place where the traveler Mazyad found a huge treasure - these were cauldrons filled with precious stones and gold. The city was named after this incredible find, and several centuries later it became the second most important city in Azerbaijan.

By the way, the famous Great Silk Road passed through Ganja. Today the city is involved in a project to restore this ancient trade route.

One day is enough to explore the old city of Ganja; you can walk it in a couple of hours, but if you don’t rush and enjoy life, aromatic coffee and sights in an oriental way, then two days will not seem enough.

How to get there

You can get to Ganja by plane, train, bus or your own transport. The plane will cover the flight from Moscow in 2.5 hours. From Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, to Ganja - 370 km. By bus the journey will take about 4 hours. Ticket price is 6-8 AZN. Drivers usually make a half-hour stop near a roadside cafe so passengers can rest and have lunch.

There is also a night train between the cities of Ganja and Baku, the fare of which is 11-34 AZN, departs around 23:00 and arrives at 7:00 in the morning. You can buy train tickets online on the website (there is a Russian version).

Ganja Airport

Several years ago, Ganja Airport received international status. It is located approximately 10 kilometers from the city. You can get to the airport by taxi. The average cost of a trip is 5-10 AZN. Prices on the page are as of November 2018.

The airport accepts flights from several carriers, including VIM Avia, Rossiya, UT Air, Ural Airlines and others. From Russia, the majority of flights to Ganja arrive from Moscow and St. Petersburg. Low-cost airline Buta AZAL began flying in the summer of 2017.

Search for flights to Ganja

Transport

The most developed type of public transport in Ganja is the bus. Routes criss-cross the city. The fare is small - 0.30 AZN. There are also minibuses in the city, and a couple of years ago several electric vehicles were delivered to Ganja for traveling around the city. True, this is not a mass form of transport, rather, as an example of concern for the environment.

You need to negotiate the fare with Ganja taxi drivers in advance. On average, a trip around the city will cost 2-3 AZN.

Weather in Ganja

Cuisine and restaurants

There are many places in Ganja where you can have a delicious time, sit with a group, and taste national cuisine. Basically, these are small, quiet cafes where locals can gather after work.

Naturally, you simply need to try Azerbaijani cuisine here, otherwise your trip to this city will be a waste. Local gourmets believe that the food in Ganja is much better than in Baku. No one has conducted opinion polls or official competitions in this area, but the chefs of Ganja are considered among the best in Azerbaijan. There is only one way to check this statement: try many dishes.

Ganja is one of the most beautiful cities of Azerbaijan, the main historical monument of which is the ensemble of Sheikh Bahauddin.

The shops

For tourists, first of all, the souvenir shops of Ganja will be of interest. Shops offer sets, trays, vases. In the 70s of the last century, a porcelain factory opened in the city. His products are actively promoted among visitors.

There is plenty of porcelain in Ganja. The products are painted in the Azerbaijani style; exquisite paintings tell about the history of the republic and national heroes.

Also in the city you can buy excellent carpets and silk scarves, engraved dishes, jewelry and, of course, wine. Azerbaijani wine, which is not inferior in taste to the famous Georgian one.

Hotels

It cannot be said that the hotel business is well developed in Ganja. As in any city, here you can rent a room in a good hotel or rent an apartment for a day or several hours.

The most famous hotels in the city are Ganja and the five-star Ramada Plaza. The first hotel is located in the central part, the rooms have a shower, air conditioning, and TV. You can also rent a conference room and business center.

A stay at Ramada Plaza will cost from 126 to 1500 AZN per night. For this amount you can get an excellent double room, as well as the opportunity to visit the sauna, fitness center, swim in the outdoor pool and play tennis.

Excursions, entertainment and attractions of Ganja

Ganja is one of the most beautiful cities in Azerbaijan. There are both ancient sights and relatively new ones that reflect the recent history of the country.

2 things to do in Ganja

Leave your mark on one of the cobblestone streets of Ganja, along which Katran Tabrizi, Abul-Ula, Feleki, Khagani, Mehseti and other “stars” of the Azerbaijani Renaissance walked.
Take a bite from the multi-ton cake prepared in honor of the birthday of Azerbaijani President Ilham Aliyev (December 24). Note that every year the length of the cake increases by 1 meter and is equal to the age of the president. At this rate, by 2021 its size will be 60 meters!

Juma mosque

The architect of the Juma Mosque, Sheikh Bahauddin, was an astronomer by vocation. During the construction of this unique red brick building, he came up with a trick: he built it so that you could set your watch by it. The fact is that at exactly noon, a ray of sunlight falls on the white brick from the western side, according to which you can adjust your ticking mechanisms.

Tomb of Javad Khan

The tomb of Javad Khan was opened as a monument in 2005 in honor of the fearless warrior who died during the capture of Ganja by Russian troops in the early 19th century. This tomb was installed on the site of the grave of Javad Khan and was made in the style of a medieval architectural school.

Russian church

Towards the end of the 19th century, a Russian church opened in Ganja. The temple appeared on the site of a cemetery, and both Orthodox and Muslims contributed to its construction. The icon of Alexander Nevsky and the icon of St. Mary Magdalene have been preserved in the interior of the church. Services are held here on weekends and Orthodox holidays.

bottle house

But the bottle house is a relatively new attraction of Ganja. It was invented by the architect Ibrahim Jafarov, who thus wanted to perpetuate the memory of those killed in the Great Patriotic War. The house is made of green bottles held together with a special solution. The word “Ganja” is laid out from the bottoms on the facade of the building.

It took about 50 thousand bottles to build the house. Today, Jafarov’s children and grandchildren live in this unusual building, who dream of renovating the house in memory of their grandfather.

“The city of Ganja, which celebrated its 2500th anniversary back in 2006, occupies a prominent place in the history of Azerbaijan. The homeland of the great poet Nizami Ganjavi and the no less outstanding poetess Mehseti Ganjavi, throughout its existence, has been repeatedly captured, destroyed and plundered, as well as destroyed by natural disasters, but each time it managed to rise from the ruins.”

Modern Ganja- this is a kind of second capital of the Republic of Azerbaijan, a fairly large city with architectural monuments preserved here and which is located in the Ganja-Gazakh lowland at the northeastern foot of the mountains Lesser Caucasus. The Ganjachay River flows through the territory of Ganja. Due to its convenient location on trade routes, the city more than once became the capital of more and more new states. There is still debate about the exact date of formation Ganja. Some argue that its foundations were laid before our era, while others consider the early Middle Ages to be its formation period. Another group of scientists suggests that Ganja arose in ancient times as a small settlement, and in our era it turned into a large city. The origin of the word itself raises no less questions. The toponym “Ganja”, which among the Arabs sounded like “ Janza”, and among Georgians as “Gyandza”, according to some researchers, is of ancient Iranian origin and is translated as “treasure”, “treasure”. This version is supported by the myth of the Arab governor Mazyade, who was told by a voice in a dream to build a city on the resting place. Later, near one of the hills, he discovered a treasure of gold. And then the foundations were laid Ganja. However, this hypothesis, based on a legend, does not have reliable facts to confirm its version. The statement that the name of the city most likely came from a tribe that lived during the period of Caucasian Albania is considered closer to the truth. ganjaks. Their existence is confirmed by science. A number of localities in Azerbaijan and Central Asia are connected with the name of this tribe, which often changed its habitat.

Original Arabic sources report that the basics Ganja were founded in the second half of the 7th century. Due to its location on the caravan routes, the city was for a long time the scene of battles between Arabs and Persians, and later the Khazars intervened in the fight. In the historical work " Derbendname”, which does not have an author, it is reported that Ganja was built in 859, after long wars between the above-mentioned peoples, which ended in the victory of the Arab Caliphate. After the weakening of the Abbasid power in the 2nd half of the 9th century, small independent states began to emerge on the territory of Azerbaijan. Ganja became the center of the Shaddadids. Due to the invasion of the Slavs, Barda was plundered and ceased to be considered the capital of the Arran zone. The role of Ganja as a trade and cultural center is increasing. Local silk and metal products attract merchants from all over Europe and Asia. In the 2nd half of the 11th century, the invasion began Seljuks. During the same period, in 1063, Ibrahim ibn Osman built the famous Ganja Gate. Azerbaijan found itself for some time part of the Seljuk state. In 1139, a powerful earthquake occurred in Ganja, as a result of which most of the local population died. Huge stone blocks of the mountain Kapaz collapsed onto small rivers, forming several mountain lakes. The most beautiful and largest of them is Gokgol (translated from Azerbaijani as “blue lake”). The water in the lake is unusually clean. Nearby there is a reserve of the same name, which is a tourist area. Georgians led by the king Demeter, taking advantage of the defenselessness of the city, they plundered Ganja. Among the captured trophies were the famous Ganja Gate, which today, in an incomplete form, is part of the Gelati Monastery in Georgia. However, the city was soon restored Eldenizides. True, the new Ganja was built just south of the ruins of the old city. In 1220, the Mongols made their first campaign against Caucasus. Some Azerbaijani cities were plundered and burned. However, Ganja managed to defend its freedom. In 1225, Khorezmshah Jamaleddin invaded the territory of the weakened state Atabekov. Central cities, including Ganja were captured. In 1231, an uprising broke out in the city under the leadership of Bandar, which was suppressed with particular cruelty. This year Mongols made their second trip. Despite the stubborn resistance of the local population, Ganja was plundered and most of its inhabitants were killed. Only 4 years later did the surviving residents begin to rebuild the city. From the middle of the 13th century Azerbaijan became part of the fifth Mongol ulus - state Hulaguidov. In the 80s of the 14th century, the invasion of another conqueror began - Emir Timur. Having captured Ganja, he used the city as a strategic base for campaigns in Georgia. The Mongol Khan Tokhtamysh also sought to annex Azerbaijan. For some time the country again turned into an arena of military battles between foreigners. At the beginning of the 16th century, Shah Ismail I laid the foundations Safavid state, which in addition to Azerbaijan included Iran, part of Iraq and Central Asia. As a result of the administrative reform, the Safavid state was divided into a number of beklarbek states. Ganja becomes the center of one of the regions. Since the 20s of the 17th century, Azerbaijan has once again become an “apple of discord.” This time, Russia and the Ottoman Empire joined the struggle for the redistribution of land. The nominal ruler of the weakened Safavid state was Nadir Khan. After the capture of the Caspian regions by the Russians, the Turks decided to organize a campaign in the central regions of Azerbaijan. However, the Ottoman army, after a long siege, was never able to take possession of Ganja.

The Treaty of Constantinople of 1724 nevertheless assigned the Caspian regions to the Russians, and the rest of Transcaucasia to the Turks. The Shah's government was not happy with this development of events. Nadir Khan decided to recapture all Azerbaijan. In 1735, an agreement was signed between the Persians and Russians in Ganja, according to which the Caspian territories were returned to Iran. The rest of the Turkish-occupied part also joined the Safavids. Formally, the existing state came to an end in 1736, when Nadir Khan declared himself Shah, founding his own dynasty. Ganja beks from the Ziyadoglu clan opposed this decision. As punishment, the newly-crowned Shah took Borchali and Shamshadil from the rebellious family and gave these lands to the Georgian king. After the murder Nadir Shah In 1747, the era of fragmentation began in the history of Azerbaijan, when the entire territory was divided into many khanates. The first Ganja ruler was Shahverdi Khan Ziyadoglu. The Khanate reached its greatest power under Javad Khan. At the beginning of the 19th century, the Russian Empire decided to take advantage of the disunity of the khanates and completely capture the South Caucasus. After the annexation of Georgia, the next target was Ganja. It was with the capture of this city that the fate of the remaining khanates was decided. In 1803, Russian troops under the leadership of Tsitsianov approached the fortress gates. Negotiations and correspondence between the commander of the royal army and Javad Khan did not give a positive result. On January 3, 1804, the assault on the fortress began, ending with the capture of the city and the death of the ruler and his son. The capture of Ganja not only opened the way for the Russian Empire to other khanates of Azerbaijan, but also led to the start of the first Russian-Iranian war. The city was named Elizavetpol in honor of the wife of Alexander I. In 1868, Ganja became the center of the Elizavetpol province. A large military garrison was stationed in the city, and schools were opened. After the October coup in Russia and the outbreak of the civil war between the Bolsheviks and the White Guards, the situation in the South Caucasus also escalated to the limit. On May 28, 1918, the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic was formed. Its first capital was Ganja. After the liberation of Baku from the Bolsheviks on September 17 of the same year, the government concentrated in the new center. However, the republic existed for a little less than 2 years. The Bolsheviks, who won the civil war, quickly took over the entire Transcaucasus. Until 1935, Ganja retained its historical name. The city was then renamed Kirovabad. Since 1989, the city has returned its historical name.

Considering that Ganja was repeatedly subjected to destruction, almost complete physical destruction of local residents, numerous relocations of Arabs, Persians, Seljuk Turks, Russians and other peoples throughout the history of the city, it was quite difficult for scientists to determine the ethnic composition of the population. However, it is reliably known that the Seljuk invasion had the greatest influence on the formation of the modern Azerbaijani people. Archaeological excavations carried out in the 40s of the last century on the territory of the old Ganja allowed researchers to assume that the first settlement was founded before the beginning of our era. The city changed hands more than once, but as part of each new state Ganja occupied a prominent place as an important commercial, cultural and religious center. Another feature of the local residents was their stubborn resistance to absolutely all external threats.

As for the architectural buildings that have survived to this day, they have reached us in fairly good condition. After the significant earthquake of 1139, the foundations of modern Ganja were founded 7-10 kilometers south of the ruins of the old city. Only stone monoliths have survived from the old city fortress. The fortress walls stretched along both sides of the river bank Ganjachay. The fortress was crowned by 2 battle towers, which were located at a distance of just over 500 meters from each other. The previously mentioned Ganja gate Ibrahim ibn Osman were made of iron, and on the outside they were painted with ornaments and patterns in the shape of a minted coin. Another historical building Ganja is the mausoleum of Sheikh Ibrahim, which was built on the site of one of the descendants of Imam Ali. The complex, consisting of a 12-meter-high mausoleum, a Muslim cemetery, several small mosques, a caravanserai and other buildings, was built in the 14th century. The dome of the mausoleum is blue. Because of this, the mausoleum is often called “Gey-Imam” or “Imamzade”. In the 19th century, after major renovations, the entire complex was surrounded by a brick wall. During the reign of the Safavid Shah Abbas I, Ganja, along with other Azerbaijani cities, received no less attention. In the 17th century, the architect Sheikh Bahauddin built an entire ensemble of buildings on the territory, consisting of 3 architectural buildings: the Juma Mosque, Chekek Hamam and the Safavid caravanserai. The Juma Mosque was built in 1606 from baked red brick. The prayer hall was divided into 2 parts (separating women and men), and the windows of the mosque are decorated with various patterns. The structure is crowned by a metal dome with a diameter of about 17 meters and 2 minarets with towers. Adjacent to the mosque was a madrasah where local children studied. The Azerbaijani poet Mirza Shafi Vazekh taught here, who had a huge influence on the no less famous writer Mirza Fatali Akhundov. During the Soviet period, the minarets and madrassas were destroyed, but today they have been restored. The second building of the amazing ensemble is Chekek Hamam - a Safavid bathhouse, which has 2 halls, different in size. The large hall includes a fairly large pool and fountain. The small hall was intended for bathing. The entire bathhouse is built of red brick and has a rather complex ventilation and steam supply system. The bathhouse operated until 1963. Today this building is included in the UNESCO list of national treasures. The third building of this complex - the caravanserai - is a two-story building with 15 rooms and 54 rooms. There is also a museum of the poetess here. Mehseti Ganjavi. In 1991, the mausoleum of the great Azerbaijani poet Nizami Ganjavi, author of the famous “Khamse” (Five), was built. This museum, along with Azerbaijani contemporary poets, is visited by poets from other countries. In 2005, a tomb was built in honor of the last Ganja khan, Javad Khan. His remains were moved from the old cemetery to a new building. In Ganja, the building in which the first government of the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic met was also preserved in its original form.

Today's Ganja is not only a major economic and tourist center in the north-west of Azerbaijan, but also a developed industrial city with well-preserved architectural buildings and an eventful history. Local museums have hundreds of exhibits. Despite the ups and downs throughout time, it was the resilience of the local population that allowed such a huge cultural heritage to be preserved to this day.