Rest in kideksha. Kideksha
In the Vladimir region of Russia there is a small settlement called Kideksha, it is located 4 km east of Suzdal near the Kamenka and Nerl rivers. The name “Kideksha” translated from Meryan means “rocky river”. This village is famous for the fact that the architectural ensemble of the 12th-18th centuries has been preserved here.
It includes the first white-stone church of north-eastern Rus' - the Church of Boris and Gleb, it belongs to the early monuments of Vladimir-Suzdal architecture, this ensemble also includes a cubic single-domed temple, its appearance is close in appearance to the buildings of Novgorod and Pskov. At a later time, these monuments were added to, characteristic of Suzdal architecture, such as the Holy Gate (the construction dates back to the end of the 17th century), they led to the descent to the Nerl River, the Church of St. Stephen (the end of construction dates back to 1780) and the hipped bell tower ( presumably 18th century).
Architectural ensemble in the village of Kidekshe
A few kilometers from Suzdal is the village of Kideksha, famous for its architectural ensemble, part of which is the first white-stone church in the North-East of Rus'.
The Church of Boris and Gleb was rebuilt in 1152, during the reign of Yuri Dolgoruky. Because of the blank, undecorated walls and narrow windows like loopholes, it looks like a fortress. In the interior of the temple there are also no frills - everything is simple and austere.
After the destruction of the town by the Mongol-Tatars and restoration work, a monastery appeared in Kideksha, which, together with the Church of Stephen and the Holy Gate, made in a very restrained style, forms an architectural ensemble.
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Church of the Holy Princes Boris and Gleb
The Church of Boris and Gleb, which is located in Kideksha, was erected during the reign of Prince Yuri Dolgoruky and dates back to 1152. There are suggestions that the church itself was founded by the great commander in honor of his sons Boris and Gleb, and for the first of them it later served as a tomb. His wife Maria was also buried here.
The Boris and Gleb Church was conceived as the main cathedral of the city of Kidekshi, which was reflected in the restraint of its external decor and simplicity of lines. But it should be noted that here one can observe parallels with Western European Romanesque art. The Church of Boris and Gleb is four-pillar, single-domed, three-apse. It was erected from squares hewn and laid dry, made of high-quality white stone. A unloading arch is laid out in the wall above its western portal. Inside the temple there are cross-shaped pillars, the blades of which are simple and single-branched, and the outer ones are double-ledged.
In the 16th - early 17th centuries, part of the church vaults and its dome collapsed. The vaults and eastern pillars of the temple were dismantled, and the eastern parts of the northern and southern walls remained only up to the level of the arcature belt. Then the eastern pillars were folded again, and the temple still exists in this form.
In this mode, you can view the sights in Kideksha only from photographs.
18th century bell tower
The white stone temple was built in 1152 by Prince Yuri Dolgoruky and is located in his country residence near the city of Suzdal.
It was a single-domed, four-pillar, three-apse structure. At the end of the 17th century, a single-domed completion of the temple was built over part of the old volume and still exists. The bell tower, which is located above the gates of the monastery, with a tent-pipe, was built in the second half of the 18th century. Her tent is noticeably different from all Suzdal tents, which have a concave shape - it is straight and has a wide “floor”. Previously, until the twentieth century, a bell hung in the belfry, which dates back to 1552. This is a gift from Ivan the Terrible, given on the occasion of the capture of Kazan. Currently, the bell tower belongs to the museum-reserve.
The most popular attractions in Kideksha with descriptions and photographs for every taste. Choose the best places to visit famous places in Kideksha on our website.
Four kilometers from Suzdal, famous all over the world for its historical buildings, there is a village that several centuries ago was a reliably fortified city. It is located in picturesque places - where Kamenka flows into the Nerl River. The village belonging to the Suzdal region is called Kideksha. There are few attractions here, however, tourists often visit these places. No more than 150 people live in this locality. The history and sights of Kideksha will be discussed in the article.
Base
In 1152, by order of Yuri Dolgoruky, the Church of Boris and Gleb was built. Today this temple is a famous landmark of Kidekshi. Historians claim that the first settlements in the village appeared long before the construction of the church. Although officially the year of foundation is considered to be 1152.
During the time of Yuri Dolgoruky, the village was a separate fortified town. The prince strove for sole rule. Yuri Dolgoruky built his courtyard here, around which boyar settlements eventually appeared. Kideksha was an important outpost in those days.
Fall of the City
In the 12th century, Kideksha was a large city at that time, on the territory of which a strong fortress rose. This is evidenced by the remains of earthen mounds discovered to the north-west of the temple. The southern line of the ramparts was presumably located in front of the meadows, where the route passes today.
The total length of the fortress, which could become the main attraction of Kideksha, was at least four hundred meters. However, this structure was destroyed around the beginning of the 13th century. In 1238, the city was ravaged by the Tatar-Mongols. It lost its status and turned into an ordinary village. In the 14th century, a monastery was located in its place, which also has not survived to this day.
What to see in Kideksha? There is, as already mentioned, only one attraction here. However, the Church of Boris and Gleb is an unusual temple. This is an architectural ensemble of high historical significance and is included in the list of “White Stone Monuments of Vladimir and Suzdal”. The central street of the village is part of the ancient route from Suzdal to Gorodets. This road was founded about 850 years ago.
Kideksha has an interesting, rich history. It's amazing how this building has survived for so many centuries.
History of the temple in Kideksha
There is an assumption that the church suffered greatly from the invasion of the Tatar-Mongols at the beginning of the 13th century. However, already in 1239 the building was restored. A white stone seat and a carved altar barrier were erected here.
In the 13th century, the city's population began to decline sharply - many residents moved to Suzdal. In the XIV-XVII centuries, the vaults of the church collapsed. The eastern pillars were dismantled. At the end of the 17th century, new details appeared in the architectural appearance of the church, which have survived to this day.
In 1780, next to the temple, the Stefanovo Church was built, and later an octagonal hipped bell tower. The last excavations on the territory of the village were carried out in 2011. Then elements of the former decoration of the temple were discovered, for example, the bases of the late iconostasis and part of the white stone altar. The omphalium, which dates back to the 12th century, is of particular artistic value. In 2011, archaeologists also discovered frescoes and a white stone sarcophagus here.
Peculiarities
The temple in Kideksha has one dome and three sides. The church is built of high quality white stone. It is often compared to the Transfiguration Cathedral of the Pereslavl Kremlin. The architecture of the Church of Boris and Gleb contains elements characteristic of the Romanesque style.
The temple in Kideksha is one of the first five stone Orthodox buildings in North-Eastern Rus'. Before Yuri Dolgoruky, churches in these places were built exclusively from wood. Moreover, in those days, North-Eastern Rus' was a wild land. The construction of the white stone temple became the crown of the reign of Yuri Dolgoruky.
The scale of construction of the church was unprecedented at that time. In terms of labor intensity, they could be compared with the construction of the Egyptian pyramids. After all, they were built from white stone, and this material had to be brought from Moscow.
Today the temple, unfortunately, is in deplorable condition. Requires serious restoration. There are no worship services.
Where to stay
If it were not for the Church of Boris and Gleb, the sights of Kideksha, a hotel would hardly have appeared in this village. However, connoisseurs of Russian architecture rarely come here. In addition, the tourist city of Suzdal is just four kilometers away. In Kineshma, you can stay at the Knyazhesky mini-hotel, located at Tsentralnaya Street, building 82. However, there is only one room here, and therefore you need to call the owner in advance. Tourists visiting these places usually stop in Suzdal, from where you can get there by bus No. 106. The cost of a taxi from Suzdal to Kideksha is approximately 250 rubles.
In the Vladimir region, 4 kilometers from Suzdal, there is a small village, more like a village, in its value and antiquity in no way inferior to its world-famous neighbor. The name of this village is . Traveling along the Golden Ring, few people stop by this godforsaken place. Although it’s close to go - Kideksha is located nearby - just extend your hand.
What is this village famous for? What made her famous throughout the world?
In the middle of the 12th century, the princely palace was located here residence of Yuri Dolgoruky- the ancient capital of the Rostov-Suzdal principality. From here Dolgoruky ruled his domains and lived here. The town was a fortress with ramparts and a high wooden palisade. 
There is a legend that this is not the first settlement on this site. Rumor has it that there used to be a camp here Holy Princes Boris and Gleb. It was probably not in vain that Yuri Dolgoruky built a church here in 1152, named after them. Despite everything, the church still stands today, almost 9 centuries later.
"At the end of the 12th and beginning of the 13th centuries, the city of Kideksha was already quite large: the remains of ramparts were found to the north-west of the Church of Boris and Gleb, respectively, if the southern line of the ramparts was located on the last slope before the water meadows (now there is a road there), then the total length of the fortress along the north-south line was at least 400 m. With a width of the fortress from 150 to 300 m, the length of the ramparts was at least 1 km. The ramparts were approximately the same length (about 1 km) in Dmitrov, and not much longer - about 1. .4 km - in Suzdal." (Wikipedia)
After the death of the prince, Kideksha lost its significance. Dolgoruky's son Andrei Bogolyubsky moved the capital to Vladimir, and made his residence in his beloved Bogolyubovo.
But this was not the end of the town. It finally lost its significance after the Tatar-Mongol raid in 1238.
Our trip to Kideksha took place on August 25, 2012 as part of a trip along the route "- Bogolyubovo - Kideksha". I wrote a lot about this trip, but only now have I reached the world-famous village. When we arrived in Kideksha, it was drizzling. So we walked around Dolgoruky’s residence in the rain. No umbrellas. The photos turned out a little dark. But this is exactly what Kideksha revealed to us - a special, mysterious place, deep in its energy and significance...
Of course, it’s worth coming here to see the first white-stone building of north-eastern Rus', and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site related to the “White Stone Monuments of Vladimir and Suzdal” - Church of Boris and Gleb.
Well, let's go take a look architectural ensemble Kidekshi.
This is how it appears to us at first glance - a low stone fence, a rickety bell tower, a couple of inconspicuous churches... But the feeling of touching eternity is amazing. I don’t know if there is such a pristine place somewhere else....
Scheme of the Kidekshi architectural ensemble. Everything is simple and modest:
- Church of the Holy Princes Boris and Gleb (1152),
- Church of St. Archdeacon Stephen (1780),
- bell tower (XVIII century),
- holy gate with fence (XVIII - XX centuries)
Holy gate with fence (XVIII - XX centuries). Photo from the site: suzdal.org.ru
The tilt of the bell tower is not an optical effect. It's really tilted.
It is not for nothing that it is called the “falling” bell tower.
Church of the Holy Princes Boris and Gleb (1152). Western façade
As I already wrote, there is a generally accepted opinion that the temple was built in honor of Saints Boris and Gleb. But “it is possible that the temple was founded by Yuri Dolgoruky in honor of his younger sons Boris and Gleb, the namesakes of the first universally revered saints of Kievan Rus. The Kideksha church served as a tomb for his son, Prince of Belgorod and Turov Boris Yuryevich, who died in 1159. His wife is also buried here Boris Maria (†1161) and their daughter Euphrosyne (†1202)." ()
Fragment of the southern wall
Church of St. Archdeacon Stephen (1780)
Fence (XVIII - XX centuries)
The river bank is visible through the fence. Kideksha stands at the confluence of the Kamenka River and the Nerl River
The name "Kideksha" translated from Meryan means "rocky river". Everything is quite plausible.
Church of the Holy Princes Boris and Gleb (1152). View from the northeast side
again the Church of the Holy Princes Boris and Gleb (1152). View from the south
Kideksha- a village in the Suzdal district of the Vladimir region of Russia. Located at the confluence of the Kamenka River and the Nerl River, 4 km east of.
The word "Kideksha" is probably of Finno-Ugric origin. The final element “-ksha” is considered to be a word of unknown Finno-Ugric origin with the meaning “water”, “river”, which is confirmed by the presence in the region of several small rivers with names starting from “-ksha”, “-ksa”. Some scholars consider the initial "-" to be a Kimerian word meaning "stone." Thus, the word Kideksha can mean the same as the current Kamenka - “rocky river”. At the same time, in guidebooks one can find another explanation of the name, associated with the Russian word “throw”, “leave”, and explained by the fact that Yuri Dolgoruky abandoned this place on which he intended to build a fortress. Other authors attribute this version to folk etymology
Kideksha as a fortified settlement existed much earlier than Yuri Dolgoruky built the Church of Boris and Gleb here in 1152[ source not specified 477 days]. According to legend, the camp of the holy princes Boris and Gleb was once located here. In particular, the “State Book” reports that “on the river on the Nerl in Kidekshi near the city of Suzhdali... there was a collective holy martyr camp, when Boris from Rostov, Gleb from Murom, went to Kyiv.” It was this legend that served as the reason for the consecration of the main princely cathedral in honor of the first Russian saints.
During the time of Yuri Dolgoruky, Kideksha was a separate fortified princely town. The prince sought autocratic rule, which is why he built his court separately from the place of settlement of the noble boyars. Located on the banks of the Nerl at the confluence of the Kamenka River, the Kideksha fortress controlled the river routes to Suzdal. It was a strategically important outpost of the principality, since it was along the Nerl that Suzdal residents traded with other lands, and in lean years along the Nerl, residents went for grain to the lands of the Volga Bulgars.
At the end of the 12th - beginning of the 13th century, the city of Kideksha was already large: the remains of ramparts were found to the north-west of the Church of Boris and Gleb, respectively, if the southern line of the ramparts was located on the last slope before the water meadows (now there is a road there), then the total length the fortress along the north-south line was at least 400 m. With a fortress width of 150 to 300 m, the length of the ramparts was at least 1 km. The shafts were approximately the same length (about 1 km) in Dmitrov and not much longer - about 1.4 km - in Suzdal.
In 1238, Kideksha was ravaged by the Tatar-Mongols, and the city soon lost its status. In the 14th century there was a monastery on this site.
Attractions
In Kideksha, an architectural ensemble of the 12th-18th centuries has been preserved, including an early monument of Vladimir-Suzdal architecture, the first white-stone building of North-Eastern Rus' - the Church of Boris and Gleb (1152, extensively rebuilt in the 18th century, frescoes of the 12th century), a cubic single-domed three-apse temple, the monumental fortress appearance of which is still close to the buildings of Novgorod and Pskov. Later, monuments characteristic of Suzdal architecture were added to it: the Holy Gate (late 17th-early 18th centuries), which led to the descent to the river, the warm Church of St. Stephen (1780), the hipped bell tower (18th century).
Since 1992, the Church of Boris and Gleb has been an integral part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “White Stone Monuments of Vladimir and Suzdal”.
In addition, the remains of ancient defensive ramparts have been preserved.
The central street in Kideksha is part of the ancient route from Gorodets. The road is over 850 years old. Currently it is partially paved.
In the Vladimir region, 4 kilometers from Suzdal there is a small and cozy village with world peace. During a trip along the Golden Ring, not everyone stops by this place, although it is located very close. A journey here is a journey into a mysterious past. Here, every street, house, temple appeared not by chance and has its own history.
There are several opinions about how the unusual name of the village appeared. The word is probably of Meryan origin. The first part of the word “ki” means stone, and the second part “ksha” means water. If you combine everything together, you get rock water. Perhaps this is just a guess.
Researchers agree that the true meaning of the name has been completely forgotten and lost. Most likely, Kideksha is a modified phrase “kit te kosa”, which translates as there is a road nearby somewhere.
How to get there?
The Family Suitcase company regularly conducts trips to the cities of the Golden Ring of Russia.
Getting to Kideksha from Moscow or Suzdal is easy. In the eastern part of the Suzdal Trade Square there is a road that stretches to the Nerl River. The village is located on the shore of this reservoir. Most people prefer to come here by car or taxi. It's only a 10-minute drive from Suzdal. The length of the distance is 4.4 km. Due to this, regular buses do not operate.
Take the Suzdal-Kovrov route (No. 116). This transport travels through the village. It departs three times a day: at 8:15, 12:05, 17:20.
From Moscow you will need to cover a distance of 220 kilometers. Travel time is 3 hours 15 minutes. The Kidekshi map will help you navigate the city.
Briefly about the history of the ancient city
In the 19th century, the princely residence of Yuri Dolgoruky was located here. From here the prince ruled his territory. The city was made in the form of a fortress, surrounded by earthen ramparts and a palisade. Legends say that this is not the first settlement that appeared here. In 1152, Dolgoruky built a monastery here, calling it after himself. After 9 centuries, the shrine has been preserved. You can admire it.
In the 17th-18th centuries. the city already occupied quite a large area. When the prince died, Kideksha gradually began to lose her status. The capital was moved to Vladimir, and the residence was organized in Bogolyubovo. In 1238 the village was attacked by the Tatar-Mongols and the city finally lost its status.
Today the flow of tourists is small. But it's really worth coming here. After all, many objects are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. In addition, here you can relax in silence, away from the bustle of the city. The streets are not crowded, and a peaceful, provincial atmosphere reigns.
Overnight
The choice of hotels is modest, but you can always find nowhere to stay. In the village there is a mini-hotel “Princely”, where you can stay comfortably. Address: Tsentralnaya St., 82. You can also find housing in the private sector. You don't have to book a room in advance. Near the village there are hotels “KremlyovskyHotel”, “HELIOPARK”, NikolaevskyPosad.
Where to eat?
You will not find cafes and restaurants in the village; there are small canteens that offer homemade menus prepared from environmentally friendly products. You can also purchase drinks and food in the store.
What to see in one day - attractions
A quiet and cozy place not far from Suzdal is an excellent solution for those who are looking for solitude and want to get to know the history of Rus' and provincial life better. The village contains many monuments of spiritual and cultural heritage. The best city panorama is available from the banks of the Nerl or from the bridge over the river.
The population is only 135 people. There are only three streets in the village - Central, Old and New. The infrastructure for tourists is poorly developed. Sometimes you get the impression that the village has long been forgotten. There is also no street lighting at night. There is a small grocery store and one store. The age of the village is 850 years. This is a natural, quiet corner untouched by man. The old huts are made in the original Russian style. They are decorated with carvings and window frames. There are ornaments depicting animals and birds. Wells, carved front gardens, benches, and birdsong are conducive to peaceful relaxation.
Temples
Boris and Gleb Church is the most visited attraction in the village. This is one of the first buildings made of white stone that appeared in Rus'. The object was built in 1152. An order came from the capital. Today the shrine in honor of the first martyrs in Rus' Boris and Gleb is a decoration of the village. In 1992 it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List. The object is protected by the state. The centuries-old structure of northeastern Rus' contains illustrations of the text of the Gospel of Luke.
The temple has portals that narrow slightly inward and resemble funnels. The appearance of the monastery looks quite harsh and vaguely resembles a fortress. The walls are blank and have very narrow windows. There are massive ledges that are made of white stone. The entire structure is made in a laconic, restrained style and does not have any unnecessary patterns. There is only one decoration - narrow ornamental brickwork and profiles. On the facade of the building you can see an unusual arcature belt in the form of false arches. This solution is inherent in the Romanesque style.
At the main entrance you will be greeted by stained glass windows with the archangels Gabriel and Michael. The decoration inside is rich. The exhibition dedicated to Boris and Gleb and the elements of ancient writing that gracefully complement the image are impressive. The monastery was the last refuge of Yuri Dolgoruky's son Boris. Here he was buried along with his wife and daughter. When the Bolsheviks came to power, the remains of the princely family disappeared without a trace. Their whereabouts are still unknown to anyone. The church contains many artifacts from the 19th century. There are valuable frescoes from the 12th century. There are quite a few floral designs that remain untouched. The monastery survived many collapses and construction projects. During the attacks of the Tatar-Mongols, it was mercilessly destroyed and desecrated.
In 1239, the shrine underwent large-scale restoration efforts. It was rebuilt again, the façade was renewed, and the destroyed altar was restored. The structure partially sank underground over time. Therefore, part of its cultural layer of the 12th century is under the ground. But the original appearance of the building has been preserved. Services are not held regularly. Therefore, it is recommended to check the schedule in advance. On the day of memory of Boris and Gleb, a service is held once at knocking.
Stephen's Church was built in the 18th century. The building is heated, has a gable roof and was erected in the name of the Holy Apostle and First Martyr Archdeacon Stephen. The customs of the wooden culture are clearly visible in the stone building. The monastery was built taking into account the traditions of Suzdal.
In shape it resembles a ship that helps to reach the kingdom of heaven. The temple is divided into two oblong parts. The windows are small, they are neatly framed with carved frames. The head was made in the form of an onion. There is a cross on the top. The interior design is elegant. Many silver and gilded frescoes. The architectural structure is operational. Services are held regularly. It is advisable to clarify the work schedule, as changes are possible.
The tented bell tower is located near the church. It was built back in the 18th century. The structure is perfectly preserved. After a few years, the structure began to lean slightly. Every year the slope becomes more and more noticeable. Now the roll size is 6 degrees. Local residents say that previously, where the princely fortress stood, underground passages were organized. Therefore, the tilt of the belfry is due to the fact that the ground has subsided. The tower consists of eight corners and is equipped with a passage arch.
Previously, a dome weighing 30 pounds hung at the highest point. He was there for approximately 2.5 centuries. It was a gift from Ivan the Terrible to the village as a sign of gratitude. There is an inscription on the bell that it was made back in 1558. The workshop was located in the Pechersky Monastery in Nizhny Novgorod. The gift in honor of the capture of Kazan became a wonderful decoration of the monastery. During the war, the lead was removed from the bell for needs. Shells were cast from metal. Today there are no bells on high-rise buildings. It was placed in the Suzdal Historical Museum.
The holy gate with a fence acts as a decoration of the territory. They were built in the 18th-19th century. The fence is located in the southern part of the territory. The façade of the gate is equipped with semi-circular slopes. They are located along the roof, on the sides. The decor of the stone has a spectacular geometric pattern. The gate and fence miraculously survived the revolution. They wanted to dismantle them for building materials.
The defensive ramparts are an interesting object that is definitely worth a visit for familiarization. If you believe the sources, then here was once the residence of Grand Duke Yuri Dolgoruky. The village was considered a powerful outpost point. He defended the eastern part of the lands from the attacks of the Bulgarians. Such conclusions were made based on the archaeological objects found. This is evidenced by the earthen ramparts themselves, the majestic fortress wall of the 12th-18th centuries.
Since the city itself is located on a hill, the rampart for defense was made low. Its height was quite enough to resist enemies. There is a wall on the rampart that has been perfectly preserved to this day. Its thickness is 1.5 meters. It was built of red brick. The surface is not plastered. Inside the wall you can see small loophole windows. Warriors peeked out from behind them to fend off the onslaught. Over time, the shaft became significantly lower. If you climb on it, you can admire the beautiful scenery. This is what attracts many tourists to the site.
The old street is a place where you can see many ancient houses, huts, wells, and carved fences. In addition, there are also New and Central streets. Asphalt was laid on Old Street today. Previously the road was bad. The road extends further to the city of Gorodets. By the way, it was also founded by Yuri Dolgoruky in 1152.
The streets are cozy and quiet. Sometimes visitors and local children meet. The houses in the village are old, but they look great. Many say that the nephew of the President of Russia lives in the village. The house is very beautiful with a mezzanine and platbands. It is located right at the entrance. The simplicity of the architecture attracts attention.
There are a couple more houses in the same style. Local residents near the road sell fragrant apples and other vegetables and fruits. It's hard to pass by and not buy anything. If you support a domestic manufacturer, then feel free to purchase. The fruits are grown in environmentally friendly conditions. The population of the village is friendly and happy to make contact.
Benefits of outdoor recreation
Families and children come here not only to explore architectural monuments, but also to simply breathe in fresh air and listen to mysterious stories about the past that will take your breath away. It is recommended to take a break from time to time to avoid work pressure, noise, and information overload. Kideksha is perfect for such an occasion. You can go to the Nerl River and sit with a fishing rod and have a great time on the local beach. The water is crystal clear. The beach is well maintained, trash bins are organized.
Fishing promises good catches. If you want to stay for a long time, you can rent a house from local residents. Sometimes you need to give up the benefits of civilization and relax alone with nature. The green color of trees, wild flowers, and clean air will promote relaxation. A picnic in nature, a walk in the forest to pick berries and mushrooms will give you a lot of positive impressions. At the end of your vacation, you can buy cute gifts for friends and relatives at the local souvenir shop.
