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Nuuk. How the capital of Greenland lives - Interesting life

Nuuk (until 1979 - Gotthob) is the capital of the self-governing territory of Greenland, which is the largest city of the autonomy. Located on the southwestern coast of the island, 240 kilometers south of the Arctic Circle. According to the latest data, the population was 15,469 people, there is a tendency to a slight annual increase in the number of residents.

On this map you can see the location of Nuuk on a map of Greenland.

The life of the city is largely determined by the subarctic climate and its location. Temperature differences are small throughout the year, largely due to the proximity of the warm West Greenland Current. It also provides an ice-free sea in this part of Greenland, which opens up year-round favorable conditions for fishing. In general, fishing is the main industry here; its basis is the production of halibut and crabs. Greenland products are widespread in many countries and are sold even in Russia.

Nuuk is the main economic and tourist center of the country. Here:

  • 56% of Greenlandic industry is concentrated;
  • Greenland National Museum;
  • Katuaq Cultural Center;
  • Santa Claus's house with office and post office;
  • sculpture of the Mother of the Sea;
  • Sisorarfiit ski resort (skis, snowboard, sled);
  • University of Greenland;
  • business college;
  • Medical College;
  • College of Social Workers;
  • journalism, industrial and construction schools.
  • attraction - the house of the city founder Hans Egede;

Video city tour

Watch an excellent video tour of Nuuk by playing in the player below. HD quality available.

How to get to Nuuk

This city can be reached by Air Greenland or by Arctic Umiac Line. Most tourists prefer air travel due to its shorter duration and convenience. Travel by sea to Greenland is available only for a few months a year and is much less comfortable. Use the air ticket search form, in which you can see the flight schedule with all transfers and estimate the cost of tickets. You can also open the “Hotels” tab to view current hotel offers and room rates, as well as go to their websites and book a room for the dates you need directly via the Internet.

Interactive map of Nuuk

You can find any place in the city of Nuuk, including houses, streets and infrastructure, by moving and zooming the map to the location you need.

Located on the west coast of Greenland, on a small peninsula at the foot of Mount Sermitsiak, the town of Nuuk (Gothob) is one of the smallest capitals on the planet (its population barely exceeds 14 thousand people). Nuuk was founded in 1728 by Norwegian missionary and social activist Hans Egede (Egede) as the very first town on the island (the largest settlements of the time did not exceed a limit of 300 inhabitants). The city received its first name - Gotkhob (Good Hope) due to the responsiveness of the local Inuit to Egede's preaching and the relatively favorable natural conditions of the area.

Nowadays, the city is a very unusual “fusion” of old European architecture, a few examples of the original Greenlandic school of urban planning and huge (and rather faceless) residential areas built on the block principle. From a bird's eye view, the city looks as if it was built from a child's Lego set, and the only pleasant exception to its appearance is the old quarters of Kolonihavnen - the historical core of Nuk. Here you can see the Egede House, which now houses the reception hall of the local parliament, the Savur Church with the Egede statue just to the south and the Arctic Garden east of the fence, the Hans Eged Church, Ilisimatusarfiyk University and Seminary, the colorful “meat market” Bradtet, Kayak -club, library and memorial to Queen Margrethe. All these structures are concentrated in a small triangle, almost two streets, stretching between Queen Ingrid Hospital in the south, Greenland College in the north and Santa Claus Post Office in the southwest.

Most of the capital's historical collections are concentrated in the National Museum of Greenland (www.natmus.gl), also located in the old part of the city (the building dates from 1728). It houses a unique collection of objects and documents illuminating the island’s past over the past four and a half thousand years, including a unique mummy from Kilakitsoq (circa XIV-XV centuries), extensive exhibitions of folk costume, vehicles (including various dog sleds) , kayaks and umiaks of all centuries), traditional tools, arts and crafts items and a large geological exhibition. The National Archives is also located here with a large collection of documents and relics. The museum complex is open from 13.00 to 16.00 in winter (from October 1 to April 30) and from 10.00 to 16.00 in summer (from May 1 to September 30), closed on Mondays. The archive and reading room are open from Tuesday to Friday from 10.00 to 15.00.

Also noteworthy are the Katuak Cultural Center (the city's only exhibition center and home to Greenland's only cinema, an art school, the Polar Institute (NAPA), as well as a cafe and Internet salon), the home of the famous Greenlandic painter and priest Nils Linges (Linja, 1880-1965 gg.), Art Museum, as well as located south of the city tourist office, on the very shore of the Baffin Sea, the famous Santa Claus House (www.santqa.gl) with its post office and office.

Nook's real appeal lies in its unique outdoor activities. Surrounded on three sides by the sea, the city is literally replete with beautiful landscapes: to the north of the stadium there is the famous Whale Watching Spot - the most unusual observation deck on the planet for whale watching, the eastern bay is occupied by the local marina Igia (the only polar yacht anchorage in the world), and northeast, right next to the fence of Nuka International Airport, the Ororuak (Klöften) ski area begins with a whole network of ski slopes, lifts, downhill trails and walking excursions. And all this is located almost within the city limits! From here, numerous excursions begin to the interior of the island, to the picturesque fjords of the capital's outskirts, as well as to the snow-white wall of the western edge of the ice sheet.

About the city of Nuuk

Nuuk, or Nuuk, is a city and the capital of Greenland, a self-governing territory that is part of Denmark. Until 1979 it was officially called Gothob. The administrative center of the municipality of the same name.

It is located 240 kilometers from the Arctic Circle, in the southwestern part of the island, at the mouth of the Fjord of Good Hope and is washed by the Labrador Sea, which belongs to the Atlantic Ocean.

Human settlements on the territory of modern Nuq were located as early as 2 thousand years BC. From the 9th to the 15th centuries, Scandinavians lived in these places and subsequently left.

In the Middle Ages, Greenland, in addition to adventurers looking for gold, was often visited by missionaries who wanted to convert the Eskimos to Christianity.

One of them, the Norwegian Hans Egede, arrived here precisely for this purpose in 1721 and in 1728 founded a settlement here called Gotthob. In Danish, Gothob means "Good Hope".

The city acquired its current Eskimo name in 1979, when Greenland gained autonomy.

Interestingly, the sea in the part of the island where Nuk is located does not freeze. This is due to the fact that the warm West Greenland Current passes through this place. Therefore, fishing in the Nuuk area is possible throughout the year. Nuuk is home to more than 60% of Greenlandic businesses, contributing more than 50% of the island's GDP. The main source of Nuuk's economy and exports is fishing.

Among the few attractions of the city, whose architecture is rather poor, we should highlight the old quarters of the historical core - Kolonihavnen, where there are truly original buildings related to Greenlandic architecture. In addition to this quarter, the house of Hans Eged, used today as a reception hall for the local parliament, the churches of Savur Church and Hans Eged Church, the Arctic Garden, the university and seminary buildings, the Queen Margaret Memorial, the house and post office of the famous wizard Santa Claus are of interest.

The climate characteristic of Nuk is subpolar. The average air temperature here ranges from +7 ºC in July to −8 ºC in January.

The city has several museums, among which are the National Museum of Greenland, where there are exhibits detailing the history and culture of this island, the Art Museum, the Kaihuaq Cultural Center, which houses an exhibition hall, an art school and a cinema, the Polar Institute, and the house of the painter Nils Linges.

Nuk is attractive, first of all, for its unique conditions for active recreation. Lovers of fishing and yachting, traditional and alpine skiing, boat trips and naturalists, whose attention is attracted by northern flora and fauna, especially whale watching, will find something to do here. There is even a special platform for whale watching.

Nuuk hosts many events throughout the year, including the winter International Snow Sculpture Festival and the Arctic Marathon, held annually in August. Website of the city of Nuuk: http://www.nuuk.gl/.

You can get to Nuuk from Denmark and Iceland by sea, as well as by air - through Kalaallisut Mittarfik Nuuk airport(www.glv.gl), located 4 km from the city.

2. West Greenland
Although the distance between Ilulissat and Nuuk is small, approximately 500 km, the climate of these settlements is completely different. The fact is that with the exception of the west and south of Greenland, the entire coast of the island is washed by currents carrying, especially in its surface part, cold Arctic waters with a low salt content. This contributes to intensive ice formation near the coast. Therefore, 1/5 of the coast of the island is blocked by ice throughout the year (north), in the rest of the coast the coast is open only for 2-4 months a year.
Icebergs are also common in the waters around Nuuk, but here they are no longer masters of the coastal waters, but nothing more than guests from the northern latitudes. During our stay in Nuk we did not see any of these guests.
Due to the fact that the climate here is much milder than in the north, West Greenland is the most densely populated region of the island, despite the fact that the population density is only 1 person/40 km2. Approximately 75% of Greenlanders live on the west coast.

2.1. The capital of Greenland is Nuuk.
The landing took place, as they say, as usual, and the plane taxied to the airport building.
The first thing you feel upon arriving from Ilulissat to Nuuk is how much warmer it is here. The temperature was about +5 C, but after the near-zero temperatures of Ilulissat it seemed like Africa was very much here.
The airport itself turned out to be about the same as in Ilulissat, maybe a little bigger. And there was another room with a “Customs” sign on the closed door.
The Sømandshjemmene hotel booked in this city did not provide a transfer, and there were no taxis near the airport either, so we had to call a taxi, which took us to the hotel for as much as 150 Danish kroner (DK). The rate of 1 DK was around 6 rubles. An expensive pleasure - dinner at the hotel restaurant, and lunch the next day was almost 2 times cheaper. So, if there is simply nowhere to drive a car in Ilulissat, then in Nuk, apparently, it makes sense to rent a car.
Sømandshjemmene Hotel is located right at the port of Nuuk. The views from the windows are not as gorgeous as in Ilulissat, but still interesting - on one side you can see Mount Sermitsiak covered with a sparkling ice cap.

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On the other side there are views of the mouth of the Good Hope Fjord (Godthåbsfjorden) and the 3.6 km high Ukkusissat Mountain.


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Since we arrived later than planned, it was not possible to repeat the method of organizing the excursion program used in Ilulissat - on the occasion of Saturday evening, all travel agencies in the city were already closed, which the girl administrator told us about. And she wasn’t happy about Sunday either - all such establishments will be closed. However, she called a more knowledgeable woman, apparently working in tourism, she came running, brought a map of the city and the surrounding area and showed on the map where the company working on Sunday was located, where the souvenir shops were, etc. So, with her help, we decided where to start tomorrow.

15.09.13
Nuuk – Ukkusissat – Nuuk

After breakfast we went to see the city. The weather was beautiful - sunny and, one might say, warm. Some of the locals even allow themselves to walk around without hats or with their hoods up!


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Nuuk is the oldest city in Greenland, founded in 1728 by missionary Hans Eged. However, long before Egged, since the 9th century, there was a settlement in this place of Icelandic colonists, who sailed here in 986 with Erik the Red. Excavations indicate that the Normans, who lived in Greenland until the 15th century, did not interrupt ties with Europe. In 1921, Danish archaeologist P. Nerlund recovered from Norman burials 30 dresses and shirts, 17 hoods with long braids, 5 round hats, stockings, pointed shoes, etc., perfectly preserved in permafrost. Their cut proved that Scandinavian fashion was in step with the elegant world of Venice and Burgundy! The skeletons of people found in excavations testified to the guards' height of the Normans; men with a height of 185 cm were not uncommon, women were more miniature, on average 156 cm. But later finds indicate the beginning of the degeneration of the Greenlanders; bones twisted by diseases and sunken chests are becoming increasingly common. Professor K. Hansen made a reasonable conclusion about the significant deterioration of the settlers’ food and its shortage in the second half of the 15th century.
Obviously, the Greenlanders suffered severely in an increasingly harsh climate, which did not allow them to maintain a sufficient number of livestock. The next blow for the colony was the complete cessation of the supply of European goods. There were many reasons for this - the “Black Death” in Europe (plague epidemic), and the extinction of Danish navigation under the pressure of the powerful Hansa, and the export of Russian fur and African ivory, which made Europeans risk dangerous “Greenland voyages” for arctic fox skins and walrus tusks unjustified.
The story of the final extinction of Greenland's medieval cities has not yet been revealed. Only Eskimo legends silently tell about some battle at Kakertok, where supposedly the last Normans were exterminated. In any case, when the ships of the Danish squadron dropped anchor off the coast of the island in 1474, the sailors were met only by Eskimos. Dilapidated houses and churches were empty. Then, in the history of connections between Greenland and Europe, a long hundred-year break begins again.
The second discovery of Greenland by Europeans occurred in 1576, it was made by the English captain Frobisher, who was looking for a route to India through the northern seas of America. He was followed by D. Davis, an outstanding navigator, who for the first time compiled an accurate map of the island as a result of three expeditions. Since 1605, Danish scientists also visited the island.
During these years, interest in Greenland and its inhabitants appeared in Europe. Rumors circulated about the "terrible" customs of the islanders, which were the fruit of pure fantasy. Ship captains from some countries kidnapped islanders and tried to bring them to Europe, but the prisoners, as a rule, threw themselves overboard or soon died in a foreign land. However, recent genetic studies show that in the DNA of some Icelanders, genes characteristic of the Eskimos of Greenland and corresponding to the parameters of the population of Eastern Siberia and the Aleutian Islands are preserved and transmitted through the maternal line. This means that the descendants of women who lived in Greenland at that time ended up in Iceland, where their descendants now live.
Formally, Greenland was considered Danish territory (until the beginning of the 19th century, Denmark and Norway formed a single state with its capital in Copenhagen). Unable to compete with the great sea powers on the ocean, the Danes began to colonize land, where there was no need to fear anyone's competition.
On May 3, 1721, the small sailing ship Nadezhda left Bergen; the purpose of his voyage was to organize trade with the Eskimos. Two months later, on July 3, Nadezhda dropped anchor off the southern coast of the island. This is where the new colonization of Greenland began.

Today Nuuk is the capital and largest city of Greenland. The ice-free bay supports the fishing industry that underpins the city's economy. There are also fish processing plants here. Today it is the busiest and most active city in Greenland, but this is unlikely to be felt by travelers accustomed to the faster European urban rhythm. While the largest city in Greenland, Nuuk remains the world's smallest capital.
Almost the entire political, cultural and intellectual life of the island is concentrated in Nuk. The parliament sits here and the country's first and only university is located. The city is home to a research station and oil and gas storage facilities. Thanks to improved healthcare, Nuuk's population has more than doubled since 1950.
The general impression of the town is pleasant - everything is neat, clean, there are not many cars, but almost all of them are not old and in good condition. The view from the city to Mount Sermitsiak is impressive.


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Danish civil engineers are considered good specialists in Arctic work, and they owe this reputation to Greenlandic experience. However, the experience did not come immediately; at first there were many failures. So, in Narsak, with its extremely strong local winds, several houses were simply blown into the sea; The supermarket in Sisimiut bent for no apparent reason in the form of a snake - the permafrost melted underneath it, and the huge building had to be dismantled.
As a result of such errors and miscalculations, many millions of crowns were thrown into the wind. But gradually large villages take on an increasingly familiar appearance to the European eye. Multi-storey residential buildings, supermarkets, and modern public buildings appear along the asphalt streets. In multi-storey buildings where both Danes and Eskimos live, there are rooms equipped for machine washing and drying clothes; in the basements there are so-called black kitchens (they dry fish, render seal oil, etc.). Currently, characterized by a crisis in the fishing industry, there is a tendency towards a slight decline in the pace of housing construction.
The historical center - the old quarters of Kolonihavnen - is a kind of Lego City. This picturesque 17th-century fishing village is made up of colorful houses, as is typical in Northern Europe.
. In addition to the traditional blue and red colors of Greenland, houses painted yellow are added, making the overall panorama take on a more optimistic look.


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Here you can see the Egede House, which now houses the reception hall of the local parliament, the Savur Church with the Egede statue just south of the fence, the Hans Eged Church, the Ilisimatusarfiyk University and Seminary, the colorful Bradtet “meat market”, the Kayak Club, the library and the Queen Margrethe memorial. All these structures are concentrated in a small triangle, almost two streets, stretching between Queen Ingrid Hospital in the south, Greenland College in the north and Santa Claus Post Office in the southwest.
For many years now, the debate has been going on about where the real Santa Claus lives. Residents of Greenland claim that he does not live in Finnish Lapland, but on their distant island in the North Atlantic. This idea has been promoted by the Greenlanders for a long time. In Nuk, on the pier there is a five-meter red mailbox, which receives letters from children from many countries of the world with requests to Santa Claus. It is believed that on Christmas Eve he arrives on Earth, takes all the letters and fulfills wishes.


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The permanent population of Nuk is approximately 14 thousand inhabitants, mostly Inuit, but there are also many Europeans, much more than in Ilulissat. People from other settlements in Greenland come here for the winter, and the population of the city increases significantly. The usual wintering place is modern apartment buildings.


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As you can see, it is not customary to glass balconies; winters in this part of the island are mild, and houses are well heated.
The terrain on which the city is built is very hilly and there are many brightly painted stairs. Wooden, which is surprising for an island completely devoid of forests. We went down one of these stairs to a small square where there is a small pier and the tourist center of Nuqa.


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We found a tourist office; in the same building there is a restaurant and a small souvenir shop.


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The girl, bored at the tourist office, did not please us with a large number of excursions - the most realistic was a boat trip - to look at the city and the surrounding area from the sea. But the boat was offered open, which killed any desire to make such a trip. There are no closed boats like the one we took to the glacier; they are subject to some kind of local tax, so it is not profitable to maintain them. A helicopter excursion to the village where the Inuit live was also offered, but this was generally prohibitively expensive. And looking at such villages is not an amateur activity. The only option left was hiking in the mountains.
The most popular hiking routes are located northeast of Nuuk, near the airport, in the Ororuak ski area, where there is a network of ski and downhill trails. But it was risky to go there - snow had recently fallen there, which was now actively melting, so such a hike would be unpleasant due to the flooded paths and dangerous due to the possibility of avalanches. As the girl said, every year someone dies on this mountain, so it’s better not to go there now. The situation was approximately the same in the town of Sisorarfiit, where in winter you can ski, snowboard or sled. But she advised us to look at Lake Nuuksøen in the foothills of Ukkusissat, gave us a map, suggested which routes we could take now, and which places might be flooded.
She also advised us to go to the National Museum of Greenland, located right there on the embankment, where we immediately headed.

The National Museum of Greenland houses most of the capital's historical collections. Dog sleds, kayaks, umiaks, traditional instruments and a variety of Eskimo and Inuit art crafts are displayed in its halls, but the museum's biggest attraction is the Eskimo mummies (dating back more than 500 years) found by the Grumvold brothers in 1972 in a shallow grave at Kilakitsoq . You are not allowed to take photographs of mummies, which is closely monitored by museum caretakers.
In addition to mummies, the museum has many exhibits telling about the history of Greenland and the life of its inhabitants, starting from the very first known settlements.
People first came to Greenland at least 5 thousand years ago. The first settlements of people with Eskimo culture on the island were found on Peary Land; sites of people of this culture, which arose approximately 2000 BC. BC, were found by archaeologists near Independence Fjord, and therefore their culture was called “Independence”. Excavations show that they were hunters of seals and musk oxen. Archaeologists have excavated Paleo-Eskimo camps. Their houses were made of stone walls, which were obviously covered with skins; in the middle of the dwelling there was a place for a fire, fenced with stones: in those distant times, the Greenlanders most likely did not know fat lamps. Small stones, cracked by the heat, were found near the hearths; perhaps they were lowered into wooden or leather vessels for cooking food.


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Scientists believe that the Independence culture disappeared from the face of the earth because it was completely unadapted to the changed climate, which became extremely harsh.
The Sarkak culture, the appearance of which dates back to 2-1.5 thousand years BC, is very similar to Independence in the type of tools and dwellings. e. Representatives of both Paleo-Eskimo cultures differ, in particular, in the decoration of the tools (among the Sarkak they are more elegant and perfect).
Camps of the Sarkak people, first found at Disko Bay, were later found along the entire western coast and on the eastern coast south of Angmagssalik. These people were deer hunters; Large dogs helped them in the hunt.
The first traces of the Dorset culture, which replaced the Sarkak culture, date back to the beginning of our era. Instead of bows and arrows, the people of Dorset used the harpoon and spear; They did not have dogs, but they had a small sleigh with runners made of walrus tusks. Eskimo legends in which the Dorsetians are called "tunit", i.e. “inhabitants of the mainland”, talk about their death at the hands of “people of the sea”; Apparently, they were later driven out from the mainland by other tribes. Around 900 A.D. e. There are almost no Dorsetians left in Greenland.

By 1000 AD e. the island was essentially deserted, but two new waves of migrants were already on their way to it. Some of them, the Normans, sailed across the stormy Atlantic on Icelandic boats, others, the Eskimos - sea hunters, descended from northwest to south along the coast on their narrow umiaks.

Arrived on the island at the end of the 1st millennium AD. e. the new Eskimo settlers belonged to the neo-Eskimo Thule culture. Their most important occupations were whaling and hunting, pottery and the manufacture of products from siliceous slate. The Thule people turned out to be better adapted to the harsh conditions of the island than their predecessors. The Eskimo kayaks were amazing in their perfection. Even a boat turned upside down could be returned to its original position with one movement of the oar, and thanks to a special apron, water did not get inside. People so skillful and adapted to life in the North could not be satisfied with hunting on coastal ice, and they boldly went out to the open sea. They knew not only a harpoon with a rotating tip, but also hunting floats and large boats (umiaks) for hunting whales.


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Large fat lamps made of stone were intended for heating homes. The bones of the sea beast went to the rafters of the dugouts. The clothing of the Thule Eskimos was ideal for the harsh conditions of Greenland.


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The main means of transportation for the Eskimos on land was dog sleds, the design of which had reached its perfection by that time and has remained virtually unchanged to this day.


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Modern Inuit have inherited Mongoloid appearance features from their distant ancestors, many of them resemble northern Indians. They have narrow, but not slanted, eyes like Asians. One of the old misconceptions - about the extreme shortness of the Inuit - contradicts reality, for their average height (162 cm for men and 152 cm for women) is somewhat even higher than that of the Japanese, and is similar to the average height of the population of Western France.

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The external features of the Inuit are much easier to describe than their psychology. Therefore, Eskimological scientists make their conclusions in this area with extreme caution and only in cases where they are indisputable. However, descriptions of the Eskimo character differ quite significantly from each other, not to mention the notes of older authors.

Thus, the French Jesuit missionaries compare the Inuit to wolves in their savagery and bloodthirstiness. On the other hand, in the diaries of F. Nansen, a sincere conviction is expressed that the Greenlanders are “the most honest, decent, good-natured people under the Sun.”
The Danish ethnographer K. Birket-Smith, who knew the Eskimos well and lived with them in an igloo for many winters, says that the Greenlanders are people in whom “light and shadow are evenly distributed. Some peoples benefit from close acquaintance. As for the Inuit, the majority of praise words were given to them by Europeans who knew them superficially. However, it would be extremely unfair to say that close communication with them leads to disappointment, on the contrary, only after penetrating deeply into their souls do you begin to understand that they are not angels, but also not the embodiment of licentiousness. but just living people."
It has long been rightly noted that there are no better companions than Eskimos when traveling through the icy deserts of the Arctic. They are distinguished by loyalty, self-sacrifice, caring, and willingness to help.
In traditional Eskimo society, death was a much less noticeable shock than it is now. Its significance was assessed by completely different standards. Perhaps the reason for this was the frequency, the “ordinariness” of death in the life of hunting tribes. Currently, the situation has changed significantly. Nowadays, newborn girls are not killed, old people are not left to die of hunger, since the need to regulate the gender composition of tribes in order to reduce their numbers has disappeared, and the threat of hunger strikes has disappeared. On the other hand, murders while drunk, in fights, etc. have become more frequent.

In fact, Europeans (mostly, of course, the Danes) pulled the Inuit out of the tribal system in our era, dramatically increasing their standard of living. But Greenland does not yet have the means to acquire all the fruits of the progress achieved through the painstaking work of the peoples of developed countries. And here, the psyche of individual Greenlanders, deformed by externally aroused needs, pushes them in search of these funds for crimes. Therefore, already in the early 1950s, a frightening increase in criminal offenses, alcoholism, sexually transmitted diseases and other results of psychosomatic changes that had become widespread appeared on the island and no longer disappeared. So, in 1946-1970. per thousand people who died in Greenland, 45 died as a result of attacks or fights (in Denmark this number is 9, in the Faroe Islands - 5); The frequency of injuries resulting from physical violence is also 6-7 times higher here than in Denmark. Unemployment assistance (previously unheard of and unnecessary), provided in amounts approaching the Danish, made parasitism possible - a vice that was also completely alien to the Eskimos until recent decades.

The emergence and growth of a layer of declassed elements, which essentially become or will become lumpen in the near future, are explained by several interrelated factors. The rapid population growth in Greenland does not provide employment opportunities for the unemployed. The specific environmental conditions of the island do not allow people to be employed in traditional agricultural sectors, which, although unproductive, are still capable of feeding them. Therefore, the share of lumpen people in Greenlandic society is growing, and it is unlikely that this growth will decrease in the foreseeable future if the current structure continues. On the other hand, Danish subsidies, which guarantee a living wage for everyone, prevent these lumpen people from starving. They usually turn into an antisocial force, easily influenced by extremist slogans.

But this is the path of our civilization in general - we lose something, we find something. The path that the Inuit were shortened from 4–5 thousand to 5–6 decades. Perhaps they have shortened it too much, which is why everything is so ambiguous.

After visiting the museum, we climbed the hill where there is a monument to Hans Egged, a Norwegian pastor who was inspired by the idea of ​​​​the need to convert the Eskimos to Christianity.

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Neither in Norway nor in Denmark did Egede find support for his plans from the secular and spiritual authorities. His attempts to organize a mission at his own expense came to nothing - being a poor man, he unsuccessfully tried to find funds by turning to rich merchants. Only in 1721, after the end of the long Northern War, was the state decision made to create a mission, and to provide its financial support, a trading company. Egede's activities in Greenland cannot be called typically missionary. He studied the language, tried to penetrate into all the subtleties of Eskimo customs, in order to more successfully fight the most “un-Christian” of them, for example, infanticide. The pastor's wife was the first to introduce the Greenlanders to the rudiments of hygiene; she treated them and died in a smallpox barracks during an epidemic.
In general, Egede’s mission contributed little to the spread of Christianity, a religion whose ideals were too alien to the hunters (despite the fact that the pastor even changed some words in prayers that were incomprehensible to the Eskimos, for example, “the lamb of God” turned into “God’s little seal”). Certain successes were achieved in the fight against diseases and harmful customs of the Eskimos, although he failed to destroy the most terrible scourge of their health, tuberculosis. This side of the activities of Hans and his wife Gertrude can be fully compared with the feat of A. Schweitzer, who fought in the depths of Africa against diseases, destructive superstitions and prejudices of the local population.
As for Egede’s trading activities, despite the privilege of a monopoly, they were, according to the Danish historian Erngor, “even worse than pastoral.” The pastor could not compete with Dutch traders who bought fur directly from the Eskimo hunting grounds. Therefore, the Danish trading company collapsed back in 1727, after which all Danes were recalled from Greenland “in order to save money.” Only Egede received “gracious” permission to stay. He continued his work alone, despite unbearably difficult living conditions.

Egged named the city he founded Godthåb - Good Hope. The city was known by this name for over 250 years until the Kalaallit Nunaat government renamed it Nuuk in 1979.
The hill where the Egged monument stands offers one of the best views of the city. Both mountains – Sermitsiak and Ukkusissat – are clearly visible.
Near the hill is a Lutheran church named after Egede.


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In addition to the official religion - Lutheranism - there are also adherents of traditional religion. With regard to the central idea of ​​religion in general, the idea of ​​immortality, the Eskimos’ interpretation of it is closer to Buddhism than to Christianity, since they consider death a necessary condition for rebirth and new life in the form of an animal, a person who has taken the name of the deceased, or in children. Life is considered as an alternating stay of everything living on earth and in the kingdom of the dead; in this sense, life and death are identical. Light and darkness, heat and cold, good and evil are also characterized dialectically. By the way, good and evil in our ethical understanding do not exist here - they have merged into one. Good is everything that does not interfere with the alternation of opposites, i.e. manifestation of their deep interconnection. That which hinders the eternal dialectical development is evil, for, by interrupting the cycle of life, it prevents rebirth. This also leads to the most terrible consequences - unnatural changes occur to the dead, they turn into ghosts; The process of transformation is not completed - and monsters (half-humans, half-beasts), etc. appear. Such unnatural misfortunes are perceived with horror, much stronger than the fear of death. Actually, the myth of the coming of light and death can be considered as the cessation of unnatural peace and uniformity, its replacement by an alternation of opposites. By the way, light and death, according to this myth, were not created: they existed somewhere, but their correct alternation with darkness and life came only as a result of prayers. The established correct order is the result of the victory of good over evil in the world.
The doctrine of the soul is quite complex. The Eskimos do not have a very definition of the concept of “soul”; it is not one, but multiple (most often threefold). That part of it, which is called Tarnek, is the bearer of self-awareness and intelligence; she can temporarily leave the body if it is the will of the shaman (meaning the hypnotic state); Anerek maintains warmth and breathing in the body (where it goes after death is unclear). Finally, the soul of a person’s name, Atek, does not leave the earthly world at all, but moves into a newborn, who receives the name of the deceased. Tarnek flies away from the body 4-5 days after death, but enters one of the afterlife kingdoms (heavenly or underwater) only a year later, when it is cleared of earthly “juices”. Tarnek can return to any living creature, but in most myths she moves into people. The incompleteness and incompleteness of the Eskimo belief system is most clearly manifested in the doctrine of the soul. Although the myths clearly speak of her leaving the body, nevertheless, the Greenlanders not only bury their loved ones in high places with a beautiful view of the sea (obviously hoping to bring joy to the dead), but also put household items, balls and etc.
Followers of the Eskimo cult do not pray; this is done for them by persons knowledgeable in magic and communication with spirits, namely shamans and “wise people.” “Wise people” were entrusted with choosing amulets that could help in this or that case, ward off misfortune sent by witches, etc.

Largely due to this feature, the Inuit easily accepted the structure of the Christian church with its clergy, perceiving them as a kind of intermediaries in communication with God.
Inuit who have converted to Christianity pay a church tax, with the exception of those who directly declare their disagreement, but these are few. Those Greenlanders who maintain their church membership by paying the church tax generally use the church's services at least four times in their lives: at baptism, confirmation, marriage (at least once), and funerals.


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Confirmation is the most popular religious ritual. In many cases, it feels more like a wedding than a wedding itself: there are gift lists, table seating plans, immaculate white dresses for the girls and smart suits for the boys. There is even something vaguely reminiscent of a honeymoon called “Blue Monday” - on this day the main stakeholder may not go to school.

From the church it’s a stone’s throw to a modern shopping center, where in addition to shops there are several cafes, as they say, for every taste and budget.


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These winds are very similar to the famous Novorossiysk bora both in origin and course. It happens that masses of cold air accumulated on high mountain plateaus or in overlying basins overflow the edge of the ridge that holds them and rush with increasing speed down to the coast, reaching hurricane force. The speed of this wind, called "piterak" by the Eskimos, can reach 300 km/h. In February 1970, in Angmagssalik, the piterak demolished many residential and public buildings in one night. The strength of the wind and snow was such that it “licked” the paint off the cars - by morning they became “silver.”

On the left you can see the new areas of Nuuk, on the right bank of the bay are the port and the historical center of the city.


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We went shopping in the city and bought local products for the evening tasting.
Among the purchased products, the only thing that seemed unusual was salmon. It was freshly caught and so lightly salted that at first it even seemed raw. Just in case, we read the label - everything is fine, the product is ready for use without processing. The taste is finger-licking, the only thing that reminds me is gududa from Baikal omul. If you're in those parts, be sure to try it.

16.09.13
Nuuk – Reykjavik

Last day in Greenland. Departure is at 14:35, the room must be vacated before 10:00. After breakfast, we collected our things, left them near the reception desk and went to buy souvenirs. It seemed that the limit on good weather had been exhausted, the rain was pouring down like buckets, the wind was trying to prove that it could cause discomfort no less than the rain. In total, the weather was so ugly that it was impossible to even take photographs.

Since it was Monday, all the shops were open, and we were well stocked with souvenirs. The only problem I had with alcohol was the idea of ​​buying some local drinks. Alcohol is sold here in special stores, the prices are terrible. The seller, however, was surprised at our reaction to the cost of Greenlandic vodka, but when he found out that we were from Russia, he nodded understandingly, like, yes, they say, you have enough of this stuff. The last batch of souvenirs was bought at yesterday's travel agency on the embankment.
With the help of one of the consultants, a taxi was called from the shopping center, which took us to the airport through the hotel. On the way, we asked the driver a little about the weather in Nuk in winter. He said that winters can be cold - up to -25 C, but in the last few years there have been no cold temperatures below -5 C.
There were unexpectedly many people at the airport; we had already begun to get used to so many people in one place. One after another, as many as three planes took off. Despite the terrible weather and increased wind, there were no flight delays. Before boarding, our hand luggage was checked quite seriously, after which we were released onto the planes directly into the rain and wind. Nobody remembered about the notorious Greenland visa.
We took off without any problems and headed for Iceland. On the plane, I remembered about the camera and took several pictures that can roughly show what was going on overboard.


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After the flight through the south of Greenland, Reykjavik and a week of travel around Iceland, described in the story about this country, awaited us. So let’s move on to a brief summary of the entire trip (perhaps I’ll duplicate the summary for Iceland a little.)

I really enjoyed the trip, especially the Blue and Ice lagoons, Ilulissat with its iceberg factory and the Ice Fjord, and the geysers, of course. And the Greenland Museum in Nuuk may be interesting even for a non-museum buff like me. The stomach also received its joys in the form of lamb soup, which also liked the salmon, and it is difficult to say which salmon tastes better - Greenlandic or Icelandic.
The general impression is of very different, unique (each in its own way) islands, pleasant and hospitable people. A trip to these parts is worth the time and money spent.

Nuuk is the capital of Greenland and the administrative center of Sermersooq. The city is located 240 kilometers from the Arctic Circle and is a rather exotic tourism destination.

There were settlements on the site of Nuuk 4,200 years ago, and Scandinavian colonists settled here in the 9th century. The city itself was founded in 1728 by missionary Hans Egede, who named it " Gotthob", which is translated from Danish as " good hope» is also the name of the fjord at the mouth of which the city is located. Nuuk received its current name in 1979, when the autonomy of Greenland was proclaimed.

In the last decade, tourism in Nuuk has been developing at a breakneck pace. New hotels are being built, and travelers from all over the world are actively attracted here. The city's infrastructure allows you to spend time comfortably even for those who cannot tolerate frosty weather. So, despite the cold climate, there really is something to go “to the ends of the earth” for: unique nature, eco-tourism, the original culture of the indigenous inhabitants - the Inuit, architectural sights and very interesting museums. Residents of Nuuk also claim that their city is the best place to watch the northern lights!

Sermersook commune

Population

15,105 people (2009)

Population density

143.6 people/km²

Danish krone

Timezone

winter UTC-3, summer UTC-2

Postal code

International dialing code

Climate and weather

Nuuk is located in the subarctic climate zone. Thanks to the warm Gulf Stream, the climatic conditions here are milder than in the central part of the island, but still one cannot expect real warmth.

In the hottest month, July, the average air temperature is only +7.2 °C! Of course, there are days when the mercury rises to +20 °C, well, the absolute recorded maximum temperature has reached +26 °C.

But in winter there is no significant temperature difference due to the influence of the same warm current; the water in the sea does not freeze here. The average air temperature in the winter months is -8 °C.

As for precipitation, on average it reaches 600 millimeters per year. Most of the rain falls in autumn and winter, but due to the variability of local weather, rain can change to snow at any time.

The best time to visit Nuuk is: from late May to July, during the polar white nights.

Nature

Nuuk is comfortably located at the mouth of an incredibly picturesque Fjord of Good Hope. This is the largest Ford in Labrador Sea. The local landscape in summer is a contrast of coastal greenery and majestic ice. The sea horizon is covered with icebergs of the most incredible shapes and sizes, and fantastic views open from the nearby mountains.

The coastal waters are home to a variety of marine mammals and many fish. Nuuk is unique in that 15 species of whales are found in its waters. Three of them - the narwhal, the bowhead whale and the beluga - remain to spend the winter in Greenland. The way these giants cut through the sea waves with their fins and rise majestically above the water is a truly unforgettable sight.

Attractions

The architectural appearance of Nuuk is formed by both traditional Greenlandic colorful houses, very reminiscent of the Scandinavian countries, and modern multi-storey buildings that give the place the appearance of a modern European city.

One of the most popular attractions is considered sculpture of Mother of the Sea. Legend has it that she lived at the bottom of the sea and sent animals and fish to the surface of the water so that people could hunt them. But people have strayed from the righteous path, and hair Mother of the Sea confused. In anger, she deprived people of food. And then the brave shaman went down to the bottom of the sea and began to comb the hair of the Mother of the Sea so that she would again bestow her generosity on people. The sculpture is located on the beach, and to see it in its entirety, you need to wait until low tide.

We recommend you visit Nuuk museums, which offer visitors interesting exhibitions. For example, at the Greenland National Museum you can look at the world-famous mummies found in the north of the island. There is also a large collection of ancient Greenlandic artifacts - clothing, hunting weapons, boats, kayaks. Traditional tapestries woven from animal wool and painted with vegetable dyes deserve special attention. The museum is open from 10:00 to 16:00 from June 14 to September 21, and from September 21 to June 12, opening hours are reduced and the museum opens only at 13:00. But during this period, visiting the museum is free, and in the summer a ticket for an adult costs about $6. Monday is a day off; on Sundays admission to the museum is free.

IN Museum of Art a large collection of paintings by Greenlandic artists is on display; here you can also learn a lot about the history of the country and see how Greenlandic art has developed in recent decades.

Of particular interest are such sights as the city treasury building, which is decorated with huge tapestries, Katuak Cultural Center, home of the city's founder, Hans Egede, which is now the seat of the Greenlandic government.

Nutrition

The cuisine of Nuuk and the surrounding area is famous for its seafood dishes. Here they are prepared in all possible and impossible ways - salted, dried, dried, fermented, baked and even served raw, which may seem too unusual for a European tourist. But be prepared for the fact that traditional Greenlandic cuisine does not involve heat treatment of meat and fish at all. Therefore, only the bravest gourmets will dare to order Greenlandic meat.

However, local restaurants have long adapted to the tastes of foreigners, and such delicacies as shark meat or seabird eggs will be served to you perfectly prepared. If earlier, for example, a traditional dish " suasat"from fish or whale or deer meat allowed only scalding as a processing, but now rice, potatoes, onions are added to it and cooked for real.

In addition to local delights, the menu of any restaurant includes plenty of European cuisine; there are also establishments with various fast food options. On the other hand, don't be surprised if a Chinese restaurant serves you caribou meat, or a Thai restaurant serves you whale meat.

As for drinks, we definitely recommend trying Greenlandic coffee (“ kaffemic"), which is prepared with the addition of sugar, three types of alcohol and whipped cream. They say that the best kaffemic"is served in the Thai restaurant Sukhumvit, where a whole performance is staged with its preparation.

Prices in restaurants are quite high, especially in high-class establishments like Sarfalik And Nipisa. But the portions are large, and the service lives up to the stated level.

Accommodation

Nuuk has a well-developed hotel infrastructure. Although most hotels are small houses with 1-2 floors, they provide all the necessary amenities and services. What is noteworthy is that not every city in Greenland can boast such stunning views of the fjords.

Most hotels have restaurants and bars, and in the summer there may even be outdoor terraces. The rooms must have a private bathroom, telephone, TV and Internet access. A buffet breakfast is usually included in the price.

In the summer, you can rent a cottage - as a rule, it will be decorated in the form of a traditional igloo, but both the materials and the “filling” of such a house are modern. Among ecotourism lovers, the option of staying on a real farm with a family of sheep farmers is becoming increasingly popular. Yes, on Ipiutaq farm Accommodation in a guest room for two with half board will cost from $140 per night per person. Of course, this is not cheap at all, but the guest has a unique opportunity to become involved in the life of sheep farmers, take part in the work of making hay, get acquainted with the unique nature of the region, and go fishing or hunting.

In general, a traveler should be prepared for the far from low cost of living in Nuuk. For example, the number in Hans Egede Hotel 4* on average costs about $300. Slightly more affordable hotel prices Seaman's Hom networkse. And if you really want to save money, then it is best to choose one of the hostels in Nuuk - accommodation will cost at least a third less than in an average hotel.

Entertainment and relaxation

Nuuk offers tourists excellent opportunities for active recreation.

In winter, you should definitely include a ski center on your list of places to visit. Sisorarfiit. Here you can have a great time skiing, sledding or snowboarding. The slope has two ski lifts and a café that serves wonderful hot chocolate. IN Sisorarfiit You can teach children to ski, and experienced skiers and snowboarders won’t get bored here. Hiking tours are organized here in summer.

If you love water activities, then despite the harsh climate, Nuuk is ready to offer you an excellent place for swimming. The city's municipal swimming pool is an example of avant-garde style in architecture; one of its walls is made entirely of glass, through which a magnificent view of the bay opens. The pool has diving boards, a sauna and a jacuzzi, and is very popular not only with local residents, but also with visitors to the city.

In summer and early autumn, you can take a helicopter tour to explore the glacier dome and ruins of Nord settlements. It is very difficult to refuse a whale safari, where you can look at these majestic animals from as close as possible.

And, of course, don't forget that in Nuuk you can go dog sledding, kayaking and mountaineering. In addition, the city annually hosts the International Snow Sculpture Festival, which is very exciting to attend.

Purchases

You can’t leave Nuuk without buying at least one of the local souvenirs - just because you will find many of the handicrafts of local craftsmen in a single copy. Souvenirs here are not cheap, but their quality is impeccable. Usually people buy figurines in Nuuk " tupilak» made from bone stone or wood, paintings, masks, various decorations made from unique local stones nuummit, tugtupit And grønlanditten, Inuit folk craft items. Products made from seal skin, produced by the fur company Great Greenland, are also very popular. The range of goods produced is very wide - from belts to coats.

Everyday shopping can be done at local supermarkets; the following chain stores are available in Nuuk: Pilersuisoq, Pisiffik, Spar And Brugsen.

Do not deny yourself the pleasure of visiting the colorful market Kalaaliaraq, where hunters and fishermen sell their morning catch.

When going shopping, make sure you have cash with you in advance. The fact is that currency can only be exchanged at bank branches. You can withdraw money from ATMs, but many of them are closed on Sunday.

Transport

Unlike other cities in Greenland, travel options in Nuuk and the surrounding area are not limited to air and water transport. You can travel around the capital by bus and taxi, not to mention snowmobiles and dog sleds in winter. In principle, many of the city’s attractions are within walking distance from the center.

The center of Nuuk has 15 kilometers of main streets with excellent paved surfaces. Buses and taxis run along them. Bus tickets can be purchased at kiosks. You can easily call a taxi at any time of the day by calling +299 321 321 and +299 36 36 36.

Finally, you can rent a car. To do this, you must be over 20 years old, have an international driving license and at least one year of driving experience. True, you can rent a car for at least 2-3 days, the cost starts from 30 € per day and depends both on the make of the car and engine size, and on the duration of the rental. It is worth remembering that the car must be returned with a full tank of fuel.

One more feature of traffic in Nuuk should be noted: oddly enough, the streets are very busy, especially in winter: cars, buses, trucks, dog sleds, snowmobiles... However, there are no accidents - the skill and reaction of local drivers is always on top.

Connection

The Internet is widespread in Nuuk: Wi-Fi and high-speed Internet access terminals are available in all hotels, post offices, large shopping centers, and educational institutions. There are several internet cafes in the city.

Mobile communications are also developed at a high level; the local operator TELE Greenland A/S provides excellent signal reception throughout the city and surrounding areas. Tourists from Russia can use roaming services, as the company has agreements with leading Russian operators. If you wish, you can rent a phone and purchase a local SIM card.

It is convenient to make calls within the city and abroad from pay phones that accept prepaid cards. Telephone cards are easy to purchase at post offices and supermarkets.

Safety

Nuuk is an absolutely safe place for tourists in terms of crime levels. Even banal thefts practically never happen here. In fairness, it is necessary to note certain social problems that took place in the blocks of block development of the 70s of the 20th century, however, local residents always have a friendly attitude towards tourists. Therefore, even in the dark it is safe to be outside. The only thing that can be advised is to behave prudently, and then nothing terrible will happen to you in terms of the safety of your life and property.

Another thing is that the main danger of staying in Nuuk lies in treacherous natural conditions. Although this is the south of Greenland, the low temperatures may take you by surprise. We advise you to pay special attention to clothing and footwear: they must be suitable for arctic conditions. In summer there is also the problem of active sun, so do not forget to take sunscreen with you.

And, despite the round-the-clock sun of the white polar nights, try to get enough sleep, otherwise lack of sleep will lead to health problems.

If you are planning a trip to areas remote from the city, make sure to coordinate the route with a local travel agency, and also carefully consider your equipment, prepare an adequate supply of water and food.

Tap water in Nuuk is undrinkable without first being sanitized: either boil it or buy bottled water. Do not eat meat and fish without proper heat treatment, no matter how tempted you are by the delights of local cuisine.

Be aware of political correctness: the word "Eskimo" is considered offensive both in Nuuk and throughout the island. The locals call themselves "Inuit", which means "people". But “Eskimo” is translated from Old Norse as “dwarf,” which, naturally, offends the native Greenlanders.

As for the language, in addition to Greenlandic, Danish is also widespread here. English is spoken mainly by the service staff. We recommend learning a few words of Greenlandic - this will ensure you sympathy and respect from the locals.

Please remember that environmental laws are very strict here. Before you go fishing, be sure to purchase a fishing license from the Tourist Office. Please note that leaving garbage behind, including food waste, is strictly prohibited (burying garbage in the ground or snow is equivalent to the fact that you did not remove it); violation will entail the payment of a very large fine.

You cannot take photographs in churches during services; photography of the local population is permitted only after their consent.

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