Fes - history, attractions, tourist tips. Fes: attractions and beautiful places For shopping lovers

El Maghrib, the land of the setting sun, or simply put, is called the fabulous Middle Ages for a reason. I ended up in this country by chance only on my second try. The first one, when all the tickets had already been purchased, the hostels were booked, and my thoughts had already explored Morocco, culminated in total changes. And exactly a year later I tried my luck again and everything worked out.

By plane

There are no direct flights from the capital cities of Russia (St. Petersburg, ) to Fez. And Iberia, Vueling, Arab Airlines, as well as Moldova Airlines and even Ural Airlines fly with transfers in Europe. As a rule, there are several transfers, and all of them have long connections. The price may be relatively small, about 250 EUR one way, but how much time can you spend just waiting?

Therefore, in this case, it is best to divide the trip from Russia to Morocco into two parts:

fly to Europe
travel from European cities to Fes.

Morocco has the best transport connections with Spain, which is close in distance and spirit. And low-cost airlines fly to Spain from St. Petersburg and Moscow very often, especially to the popular one among Russians. In connection with all this, and plus the fact that it is very attractive not only as a transfer point, it turns out that flying to Fes via Spain is an ideal option.

So, for example, from Russia to Barcelona you can make a flight in 4 hours for 150 EUR one way with Vueling or Iberia airlines. And you can fly from the capital of Catalonia to Fez for 50 EUR on the most budget-friendly European airline, Ryanair. And you will spend about two hours on the road, if not less.

There is an excellent website Vandrouki, which publishes all the current promotions and offers for traveling around the world, and at the same time comes up with ways to travel almost for free. There are often very interesting offers on “how to get to Morocco.” For example, during the May holidays of 2017 you can fly to Morocco for just 30 EUR. Is it a joke? It’s just that Ryanair now has incredibly cheap tickets to these destinations. All that remains is to get to Tallinn and open Schengen, if it doesn’t exist yet.

On the same Vandrouki, they sometimes publish promotions for flights to Barcelona via Pobeda Airlines. By the way, if you only make transfers in Spain, then no Schengen visa is required. And you can still choose the most convenient and economical flights.

How to get from Fes airport to the city

Arriving in Fes, you first find yourself at the airport. Fez airport is tiny compared to the giant ones in Europe, but nevertheless it does a good job of being the only airport in fairly populated and popular Fez. There are points at the airport where you can exchange dollars or euros for local dirhams. Usually the exchange rate at airports is higher than at exchange offices in the city center, but to get to the city itself, you will definitely need money, which means change, but only a small amount.

There are two ways to get to the center from the airport:

by bus No. 16 for 3 EUR per person, but the bus does not have an exact schedule;
by taxi is fast, fun and not expensive, namely for the same 3 EUR per person.

Usually at the bus stop, which is located across the street from the airport itself, only foreigners who are not yet accustomed to the leisurely pace of the country stand patiently and wait for at least some bus. So we waited for the bus for about half an hour, it didn’t show up, but taxi drivers surrounded us and loudly invited us to go with them. Then we, and there were two of us, teamed up with other similar travelers, bargained with the driver on the price of the bus fare and went to Medina in friendly and cheerful fashion.

By train

The railway service in Morocco is quite developed. Fes can be reached by train from major cities such as Marrakesh and.

The train from Marrakesh to Fez takes 7 hours, from Tangier - 5 hours, and from Casablanca - 4. They say that Moroccan trains are divided into two classes:

a specific seat with a ticket,
any free space.

The cost depends on the class, but the prices for the second class are approximately as follows:

from Marrakech for 20 EUR,
from Casablanca for about 15 EUR,
from Tangier for only 10 EUR.

The first class will cost 5–10 EUR more. Children under 4 years old can travel by train for free, and children under 12 years old receive discounts.

Exact prices and train schedules can be found on the website of the Moroccan railway ONCF, but you cannot buy or book tickets outside Morocco; this can only be done upon arrival at the station. But trains run frequently and there are no difficulties with the number of tickets.

Fes train station is very beautiful, and you can get from it to the city center by taxis parked at the exit.

During our entire trip to Morocco, we were never able to try trains, but some travelers we met along the way used them and were very pleased with the comfort and speed.

By bus

Buses are perhaps the cheapest and therefore the most popular way to travel around the country. The Moroccans got these same buses because they were unsuitable for use in Spain. But in fact, ALSA buses in Spain and Morocco are completely indistinguishable. Well, yes, the ones in Morocco look a little more worn, but overall they drive great, the seats recline, and the air conditioning works properly.

The main bus companies in Morocco are CTM and SupraTours. Each carrier has its own website where you can check the direction and bus schedule. To Fez, for example, from Tangier a bus will take about 6 hours for 11 EUR. From Marrakech – 9 hours for 17 EUR. From Casablanca – 5 hours for 9 EUR. In addition to the ticket price, cunning Moroccans can also charge an additional fee for placing luggage in the luggage compartment. Therefore, many people pack their luggage under the seat, under their feet, over their heads, and even ride in an embrace.

Bus tickets can be bought at the small ticket office at the bus station. Each company has its own cash register. It is better to always purchase tickets in advance. Buses run at intervals of up to two hours, but are almost always crowded. Still the most popular transport in Morocco.

An alternative to comfortable tourist bus companies are local, very worn out, overflowing with garbage and jam-packed buses from an unknown carrier that stop in every village, which are easy to catch with a wave of your hand and the fare for which costs almost half the price of a regular bus.

This option is of course for experienced people. We decided that we were experienced and so we tried it. In a word, delight. It is probably impossible to get to know the country even better after such a close four-hour Moroccan environment.

There seem to be two bus stations in Fez. One is right next to the Medina, five minutes from the main entrance to the old part of the city. And the second one is on the edge of the city. From the first you can easily get there on foot, and from the second you can take a taxi for about 2 EUR.

By car

The roads in Morocco are very good. Traveling around the country by car is a great idea, especially if you are traveling with a large happy family.

You can easily rent a car by booking it in advance on the website of any European company you like, whose car rental is also common in Morocco, or by deciding this issue upon arrival in the country. On the spot, you can often negotiate with the Moroccans to reduce the rental price, but it depends on your luck. There are both toll and free roads throughout the country. And you can get behind the wheel as soon as you step off the ramp or off the deck and head towards Fez. The car rental system in Morocco works quickly.

There are a lot of people traveling by car. We didn't rent a car, but we still managed to evaluate the roads.

By ferry

Unfortunately, you won’t be able to take a ferry to Fez itself, but it’s quite possible to get to nearby Moroccan cities.

Ferries operate from Barcelona and southern cities of Spain. It will take a whole day to travel from Barcelona to any Moroccan port city, and a one-way ticket will cost approximately 100 EUR. Therefore, if you travel by ferry, it is better from such sunny cities as Motril, Algeciras or. You can also get from the Spanish autonomous cities of Ceuta and Melilla, located in northern Africa, surrounded by the sea and Morocco, and from there, crossing the border, go to Fes.

The fastest and most affordable route is from Algeciras or Tarifa to Moroccan. The journey will only take about an hour, and the cost of one ticket will be around 25 EUR. Ferries run 8–10 times a day. Other directions will be more time-consuming and will increase significantly in cost.

There are several ferry companies, but there is also a great site called Direct Ferries with the best deals. You can also purchase these same tickets at the port if this type of travel was not planned in advance. However, a minute before the ferry departs, there may be no tickets available. Although ferries run frequently, there are always quite a lot of people wanting to go there.

We got to Fez by plane and left Morocco by ferry towards Algeciras. And crossing the sea border, watching one incredibly interesting piece of Earth move away and another equally interesting land approach, is very, very cool. It feels incredible freedom.

Clue:

Fes - the time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow 2

Kazan 2

Samara 3

Ekaterinburg 4

Novosibirsk 6

Vladivostok 9

When is the season? When is the best time to go

Fez is good at any time of the year. The temperature there is above zero all year round, and just 50 km from the city are the ever-snow-capped peaks of the Atlas Mountains, and the ocean is just a stone's throw away. If you go to Fes, it would be nice to look at other interesting Moroccan places. If you go in the summer or early autumn, then you definitely need to swim in the warm Atlantic. And if at the end of autumn and before the beginning of spring, then conquer the Atlas Mountains. As such, the tourist season is considered to be the period from April to October, as well as the New Year holidays. But even outside of this season, Morocco, including Fez itself, remains very attractive. But it's worth remembering that high summer can feel too hot, and winter can be surprisingly cold at night. It is also very important that during the holy month of Ramadan (the ninth month of the lunar calendar), you should probably not come to Morocco, as with mandatory Muslim prohibitions, the country may give the wrong impression.

Moroccan tagine (a traditional dish) is always in season, and that's something. So you need to go to Fes according to your heart.

Fes in summer

The temperature in Fez throughout the summer exceeds +30 degrees during the day, and drops to +17 degrees at night. Since Fez is not surrounded by either sea or ocean, summers in the city are very dry, but aggressive. At this time of year it is better to be closer to the water, and you can only visit Fes for a couple of days to fall in love with this imperial city, and later return to it more than once.

Fes in autumn

At the beginning of autumn, the weather is not much different from summer. By the middle of this season, the temperature drops to +25 degrees, and in November it is already around +17 degrees. The scorching sun subsides, the stuffiness disappears and it’s time to get acquainted with Fez.

Fez in spring

In spring, the air temperature in Fez rises from +15 to +25 degrees during the day, and at night it stays within +10. This is a very favorable season for traveling to Fez. Especially in April - early May, when flowering begins and the city turns into a huge orange garden.

Fes in winter

The air temperature in winter in Fez varies from +10 to +15 degrees during the day and a maximum of +5 degrees at night, but the nights can be very cold, given that heating in Morocco is not as well thought out as in Russia.

During the day, it’s quite possible to walk around in a dress, sneakers and a light jacket, but for the evening you need to be prepared and have warm clothes with you. During the day the sun usually shines and warms, but there are also strong winds and light rains.

There are quite a lot of tourists in Fez during the New Year holidays, and to the south of the city among the Atlas Mountains there are many ski resorts that are so popular in the winter season.

Fes - weather by month

Clue:

Fes - weather by month

Districts. Where is the best place to live?

Fes is relatively small, and all the must-sees are concentrated in the old part of the city – the Medina. In general, the city is divided into three parts:

Fes el Bali is the old Medina, surrounded by a medieval wall and consisting of thousands of streets and alleys. This giant pedestrian zone is one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The Old Medina is divided into districts. In some, potters live, in others, weavers, in others, tanners. Some of its streets are very narrow, but most importantly, they are very confusing. A map in hand and excellent local orientation skills can clearly fail you in such an immense and mysterious Fes el-Bali.
Fes-Jdid is the new Medina, which is separated from the old Medina by a medieval wall with many beautiful gates. The most important of them is the crenellated gate of Bab Bou Jeloud. This part of Fez is filled with markets, shops, and restaurants. It is less confusing, but more touristy.
New Fes is everything that is outside the Medina. This part of the city is unremarkable. There are ordinary houses and all kinds of transport, a train station, a bus station, an airport. In general, the civilization we are accustomed to.

If we talk about where it is best to stay in Fez, then definitely in the new Medina or, perhaps, outside it, but within walking distance from it. And here's why: Fes-Jdid is located as if between that part of the city where it is interesting and the one where you need to visit. Fes el-Bali, on the other hand, is located in the depths of the city, and upon arriving in Fes you need to not only walk kilometers, but also try very hard to find the very same housing in these million intricate streets, and therefore this is not the best area to live. It’s completely illogical to stay in the new Fez; after all, that same imperial Fez should be much closer. But the new Medina is the golden mean.

Types of housing

Tourism is very well developed in Morocco, which means that the issue of housing for travelers has been completely resolved. In Fez, of course, there are the usual, familiar to many, hotels and hostels, but in addition to this, there is also traditional Moroccan housing, which is divided into Dar and Riad.

Dar is translated from Arabic as a house, inside of which there is always a courtyard. Riad is translated as palace and implies the presence of an internal garden. Both are very common on Moroccan soil, but only among the wealthy population. However, for us travelers, the Moroccans came up with a great idea and opened their hotels, hostels or guesthouses, but in the form of gifts or riads. The main difference between a palace and a house is only in the modesty of the second, but both of them are very beautiful and cozy. Both are decorated in an Arabic style with tall stunning doors, colorful lamps, patterned tiles, a sea of pillows, a fountain in the center of the patio and plants around. And their courtyards are ideal for tea drinking, good thoughts and familiarization with the Arab world. Therefore, by staying in such traditional shelters, you can fully immerse yourself in Moroccan life.

You can book accommodation in advance at. Out of season, you can check in without a reservation, and the hosts can offer a discount. Housing prices in Fez are quite reasonable. You can find chic, expensive and quite comfortable, but at the same time budget: from 5 to 500 EUR per night.

From personal experience

During our stay in Fez, we managed to stay in two completely different hostels. The first was Dar Rabha - a small but very nice hostel. It is located five minutes from the main entrance to the new Medina. Dar seems to be hidden from the eyes of passers-by, so finding it is not so easy. One kind Moroccan helped us with this. From the outside the hostel looked very dull, but inside, surprisingly, it turned out to be magnificent. The hostel has a terrace, free breakfast and all useful information about the city. One night in a shared room costs 5 EUR per person. The disadvantages of the hostel: a little cool both in terms of temperature and atmosphere. But overall, I highly recommend Dar.

The second place was Riad Verus. It is located outside the new Medina, but close to it. Also hidden and also unremarkable, judging by the front door. Once inside, you really find yourself in a palace. In a magnificent Moroccan palace. A fountain gurgles on the patio, you are treated to mint tea and you meet new interesting people. This Riad is very atmospheric, with a huge terrace and views of the whole of Fes, luxurious breakfasts and great guides around the old Medina for only 5 EUR per person. One night in such a riad costs 8 EUR. For all the advantages of the palace, there was one sharp drawback - the poor musical taste of the owner, who played techno from morning to night. But during all this time, so many guests have changed, but no less opinions remain that this minus could have long ago turned into a plus. In general, I recommend it.

By the way, Morocco can also offer options for lovers of apartments and homestays. Although this is a third world country, such housing is quite developed there, although not very popular. A huge advantage of using such guest networks is getting out of your comfort zone and getting to know the city through communication with locals. We tried living with a family not in Fez, but in Morocco, and were very pleased.

What are the prices for holidays?

First, about Moroccan dirhams. You can exchange currency for local money at any of the many exchange offices in the city. But each exchanger has its own rate and often they are too high, so it is better to first find out the rate of each counter exchange office, and only then choose the most profitable one. In my experience, the most successful place for such a currency exchange was at the entrance to the new Medina on the right side, if you were facing the Medina itself. Then, in the winter of 2017, 1 EUR cost approximately 10 AED (dirham).

In general, Morocco is a very cheap country and Fez is no different from other cities in this country in terms of prices. Prices for travel and housing were given above, but as for food, everything is very comparative. For example, local delicacies and Moroccan gifts in the form of tangerines and dates are very cheap here (only 50 cents per kilo of each delicacy). Factory products in Morocco are more expensive than usual, and they are brought mainly from Spain. Everyone's favorite Oreo in the Moroccan expanses can cost 3 EUR, so when you are in Fez, it is best to fully indulge in the local food. Although it is unique, it is also tasty.

As a price guide, Moroccan bread costs approximately 25 cents, water costs 30 cents. Large portion of couscous with chicken – 3 EUR. Moroccan tea – about 1 EUR.

Below, in the “Food” section. What to try” also shows prices for food, and in the sections “What to do” and “What to bring as a gift” prices for the corresponding topics are mentioned.

Clue:

Cost of food, accommodation, transportation and other things

Currency: Euro, € US Dollar, $ Russian Ruble, Rub Moroccan Dirham, MAD

Main attractions. What to see

The main and only attraction of Fez is its old Medina. In it, every confusing street is dotted with markets and workshops that deserve great attention. You can wander along these streets on your own, get lost, stumble upon a small square where all sorts of metal things are forged, from jewelry to teapots, and then ask everyone how to get out of this Fes el-Bali. You can also get a guide who will not only confidently guide you through the entire Medina and tell you historical facts, but also show you places completely inaccessible to the tourist eye. For example, the guide can take you to where delicious Moroccan bread is baked or where wooden products are decorated with patterns. There are plenty of guides on the streets of Fez, but it’s better to contact reliable ones who often work at hotels and hostels. An excursion with such a guide can cost 5 EUR per person for 3 hours of adventure in the unique Fes.

But the most stunning feature of Fez is its dyehouses, where hunched tanners process and dye leather in an ancient manner, standing knee-deep in vats full of various liquids. The technique for dyeing leather is as follows: first, the leather is treated by soaking it in lime baths, and then in a solution of bird droppings, and after that, the leather is rinsed for a long time in the paint and finally left to dry. All paint is exclusively natural: made from henna, turmeric and other useful products.

Stumbling upon dyehouses by chance in old Fez is a rarity. Therefore, everywhere along the way there are Moroccan guides who are ready, for a small fee, to take you to the very dyehouses that appeared in “Clone”. They usually lead to leather goods stores, from the roofs of which there is an excellent view of the world of tanners. For freshness, they give you a sprig of mint, because there is a monstrous stench in these dyehouses, and they briefly explain the process of working with leather, which they then persistently try to sell in their stores.

Top 5

Beaches. Which ones are better

The topic of beaches regarding Fez is not relevant, because the city is located in the interior of the country, and therefore far from the seas, oceans and beach holidays. But Morocco is not as big as it seems and just 7 hours drive from Fez is the very nice ocean city of Essaouira, but that's another story.

What to see in 1 day

In one day in Fez you can see everything, try it and understand whether this is your city or not. The most important thing in Fez is not to rush anywhere.

5:00 – wake up to the sound of the muezzins calling for prayer in cracked voices, get inspired by this and fall asleep again.
8:00 – I’m sure to wake up, stretch and smile at the new day.
8:30 – Have a traditional Moroccan breakfast on the riad’s patio or terrace overlooking the city in anticipation of something extraordinary.
9:30 – get ready and wander around the Medinas of Fez without maps, navigators or tips, go by touch and notice every little thing.
11:00 – have a snack of Moroccan tangerines and mint tea.
11:30 – buy, sign and send a postcard to your returning self or to your loved ones, thus sharing your first impressions of Fez.
12:00 – have lunch at one of the street restaurants you like with tagine or harira.
14:00 – find an excellent guide around the old Medina of Fes and with him see a completely different city, hidden from the eyes of visitors.
16:00 – with or without a guide, look at one of the city’s dyehouses, hear the story about the process of such hard work, be horrified by the aromas, remember Zhadi from “Clone”, who ran among similar or the same vats to meet love, capture this place on camera and in memory.
16:30 – refresh yourself with avocado juice and stock up on useful souvenirs, honing your bargaining skills.
17:00 – return to the riad to dine on pastila and oriental sweets on the terrace overlooking the sunset view of Fes.
18:00 – go to cafe Barcelona for a concert of traditional Moroccan music.
19:00 – visit one of the best hammams in the city and thereby get a real Moroccan experience.
20:00 – take a final stroll around Fez and decide whether the city has enchanted you or not.
20:30 – inspired by such a busy and interesting day, stay a little longer in Fes or buy a bus ticket to a nearby, famous, glorious blue village and go on a new adventure.

Food. What to try

In Fez, as in the rest of Morocco, the food is juicy, spicy, but not too varied. Five courses and that's where Moroccan cuisine ends. You can read more about these 5 traditional dishes (mint tea, tagine, couscous, harira, Moroccan salad). And here I will tell you about other highlights of the national cuisine.

One of the typical Moroccan breakfasts consists of a fruit salad with yogurt, a loaf of cheese and an egg with spices, buns and cakes, so similar to our Soviet sweets, freshly squeezed orange juice and mint tea. Another breakfast option may include black olives and excellent Moroccan bread. Such breakfasts are often served in hostels.

Morocco is rich in the most delicious tangerines in the world, which cost just a penny. They are sold in the endless markets of Fez for only 50 cents per kilogram. Also, juices are often made from tangerines and sold on the streets of Medina. Avocado is also very common on Moroccan soil, which is added to salads, but it’s even better when it is beaten with milk and sugar in a blender and you get a very satisfying, delicious avocado cocktail. You can try this drink at street stalls or in city restaurants for 1.5 EUR. In addition to healthy fruits, Morocco also has very unhealthy and very sweet oriental sweets.

There is another very tasty and unusual dish in Moroccan cuisine - pastila. It's a sort of chicken and peanut pie topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon in the shape of a Star of David. This is a must try. You will definitely not remain indifferent. Pastila is available in almost every restaurant in Fez for 4–5 EUR.

Almost the entire Fes-Jdid is dotted with restaurants and cafes, where both tourists and locals eat and drink tea. In terms of price categories, they are almost the same, but the friendliness of the owners and waiters plays a decisive role in choosing a particular place for lunch, dinner or regular tea.

We liked the place at the main gate to the new Medina on the right hand. A father and son work there and both of them are very kind, speak almost all the languages of the world and cook very tasty pastila.

Safety. What to watch out for

Security in Morocco in general is very well described in. From my own experience I can say that Fez is not at all criminal, and there are no less pickpockets and scammers in safe Europe. But in Fez, as in other parts of Morocco, you need to always be on guard and not fall into trust in the Moroccans, who are looking for benefits in everything and very rarely help for nothing.

I was traveling with my boyfriend, whose appearance is somewhat close to Arabic, so no matter where we were together, he was always treated as one of our own, and I, as is customary in the Muslim world, was not addressed directly. When I went out alone, I was sure to be surrounded by excessive intrusive attention. Consequently, in the Arab world, it is safer for a girl to travel accompanied by a man, but by covering her head with a scarf, plucking up courage and ignoring everything unnecessary, you can completely travel around Morocco alone. Throughout our journey we met several such brave people.

As for night walks in Fez, it is better to refrain from this. As for deceptions, in my opinion, Moroccans are very smart and cunning, which means they will not deceive out of the blue. In El Maghreb, all relations are based on trade, which means you can always reach an agreement and find a compromise. It turns out that being able to bargain is very cool. It's a kind of art. Very subtle and witty. The basis of Moroccan culture. By buying something without haggling, it is possible to even offend the seller himself. Therefore, try to reduce prices and not only for the sake of profit, but also for the sake of pleasure.

Things to do

Hammam

In addition to endless walks through old Fez and sampling all the Moroccan delicacies, in the city you can and should visit the Arab baths - the hammam.

There are two types of hammam:

expensive luxury baths, similar to modern spas, but in Arabic style, and created specifically for tourists;
modest, affordable baths that local Moroccans go to weekly, or even more often.

I honestly rejected the first option due to its tourist orientation and excessive pomposity. And I didn’t decide on the second one for a long time, because experienced people told me about their unusual double impressions of such a hammam, and I didn’t understand whether I needed such an experience. Finally I made up my mind. I chose a place, got lost while getting there, but finally I ended up in that legendary hammam. There were two doors in front of me. One entrance is for women, the second is for men. At the entrance there was a spacious room with high ceilings and benches along the walls. This was the locker room. There were Moroccan women standing at the entrance and telling us what the salt of the hammam was. In such a hammam you can simply come and wash yourself, or you can have them wash you and even give you a massage. Of course, I agreed to the second one. Washing yourself is still nothing new. It cost me 10 EUR, but I had to bargain.

When I got tired, they took me to another room, smaller, but still with huge ceilings. The room was filled with women and girls sitting on the stone floor and pouring buckets of water over themselves. They sat me next to them, surrounded me with buckets full of water, and began to wash me with black special soap. They washed it so much that I was afraid for my tattoo. Everything worked out fine. They rinsed me off, gave me a massage and released me. I was delighted. Honestly! First of all, I have never felt so clean before. And secondly, it was an unexpected cool experience, and most importantly, it was something truly Moroccan.

Cafe

In addition to the hammam, in Fez it is worth checking out one very modern Moroccan cafe, which, surprisingly, is called. From the outside it looks completely ordinary, but from the inside it is very stylish in Arabic style. This cafe often hosts traditional Moroccan music concerts. Tickets for concerts are paid, about 3 EUR, but the entrance ticket includes any free drink. All the golden youth of Fez gather for the concerts, which, it turns out, are not much different from the European ones: just as liberated and mobile. And this cafe was the only place where I saw so many Muslim women at once and all without hijab.

This cool place is located on Talaa Kebira street, in the new Medina. The cafe is noticeable, so you won't pass it by. By the way, TripAdviser has reviews and photos of this very Barcelona cafe.

In general, the place, music and atmosphere are very impressive and Fes opens up as if from another, previously unseen side.

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

Fes is no different from other Moroccan cities in terms of traditional things that, after leaving the Eastern fairy tale, you can take home as a souvenir or for use, or as a gift and to please your loved ones with them. The only thing: Fes is a city of leather workers, as we already decided earlier. This means that leather and all kinds of leather products in Fez should be much cheaper than in other Moroccan corners. Take this into account when trading, because many traders cheerfully and confidently quote super high prices. For example, I bought a shoulder bag for 9 EUR in Chefchaouen, and in Fez they wanted to sell me exactly the same one for no less than 20 EUR. The difference is noticeable.

About Morocco describes the main traditional souvenirs of northern Africa. But I will describe those that were not included in that article here.

For my loved ones, in addition to some of those listed, I brought pillowcases made of cactus thread, stylish jackets with hoods and Berber patterns, and a lot of argan in the form of creams and oils for both the body and for cooking. I also brought them stories, sunshine and good mood.

How to get around the city

Fes is quite small, and all its attractions and simply interesting places are located within the Medina, so the best way to get around the city is on foot. In addition, entry of any vehicle into Medina is strictly prohibited.

Taxi. What features exist

A taxi is an excellent option if you need to get from the airport to the city center or vice versa, as well as to the train station or bus station. The trip will take about 10 minutes and will not cost much. You can find out approximate taxi prices in advance at the hotel/hostel or at the airport, train station or bus station. But within 5 EUR you will be taken to the right place. Only cash is accepted for payment. And you can catch a taxi on every corner, but it also happens that taxis line up in an orderly manner, which can be seen from a kilometer away.

Taxis in Fez are very, very common, not only for tourists. Locals, lacking their own cars, willingly take taxis, and cunning taxi drivers recruit everyone they meet along the way as passengers. Thus, traveling in a crowded taxi is not uncommon, but the norm. There is a huge plus in all this - it’s fun and very Moroccan.

Transport rental

Renting a car in Morocco is a very common and simple matter. And Fes is no exception to this.

To rent a car, you need an international driving license and money. Vehicle rental companies, both local and international, are equally good. Only the latter can cost much more, but they are still more reliable. On average, renting a regular car costs 45 EUR per day, excluding taxes, mileage, insurance, and so on. You can see the cost of the car you are interested in in a convenient city for rent in Morocco. Gasoline is also inexpensive compared to European gasoline.

Fes - holidays with children

In Morocco in general, it is very common to see large families with children traveling around the country by car. However, Fez is not at all suitable for young guests: there is no entertainment they are used to and even no interest in the city itself. But in Fez you can stop for a couple of days to take a break from the road and soak up the sun from the terrace, and then go to the mountains to snowboard and ski. Children love it, even if they don’t know how to do it yet.

Ski holiday

From December to April, the ski season is open on the peaks of the Atlas Mountains of Morocco.

One of the best ski resorts is Ifrane, located not far from Fez. You can get there either by rented car or by CTM bus. The mountains there, they say, are excellent, and are suitable for both amateurs and professionals.

We have not yet had the opportunity to experience these majestic mountains, but everything is ahead! Have a great trip to Fes and other areas :).

Africa - Morocco Fez day one.

City of contradictions, “you say you are going to Fez, but I know that you are not going to Fez...”. - old proverb.

Video about traveling to Morocco, Fes - day 1

Photo report about the trip to Fes

Fes old town

Road to Morocco

And so I’m back in Africa and this is the first day of my next trip to this continent, but I didn’t manage to get to Africa without adventure. Namely, about 3-4 months before the trip, I bought a ticket Moscow - Fez at a very attractive price of about 150 dollars. We bought a ticket and was pleased and did not pay attention to the nuances. I thought about these nuances 2-3 days before departure. The following nuances include a flight from Moscow to Fez with a transfer in Barcelona.
You arrive in Barcelona at terminal 1 and depart from terminal 2. For example, if you arrive at Paris Charles De Gaulle Airport, there may be the same situation when you arrive at one terminal and depart from another, but there are no problems with this. In this case, 2-3 days before departure, something clicked in me and I decided to check this situation more precisely. I started looking at Russian-language websites that said that there was a free bus from one terminal to another that would take you to another terminal in 10 minutes. On some sites it was even written that the move was carried out through closed communications. But again, doubt crept into my mind and I started asking questions on travel forums along this route. And on one of the forums, one traveler answered me that he flew a similar route twice and both times he went outside the transit zone to catch a bus that takes him to another terminal. It turned out that in this situation I needed a Schengen visa, which I couldn’t get in 2 days.
Having seen that such a situation was developing, I wrote a letter to the Barcelona airport from which I received an answer that I needed to clarify this situation at the Spanish Embassy. Having added up all the terms, I decided to go on an adventure. But first I printed out the boarding pass for the flight from Barcelona to Fez, this pass played a very important role.
The adventure was as follows: I fly to Barcelona, show my boarding pass, and say that I wrote you a letter to which I did not receive a clear answer. I called the embassy and they told me that the airport staff would help me. As a result, I had to convince the employees that I had done everything that depended on me and they should take me along the landing strip to another terminal.
Ultimately, I arrive in Barcelona at Terminal 1, go to passport control, the employee is looking for a visa, and I tell her that there is no visa. She looks at me with wide eyes. Then I explain the situation to her and show her my boarding pass, saying that I have everything for the flight and I’m ready to fly.
Then he takes my Moscow-Barcelona ticket, my boarding pass for the Barcelona-Fez flight. 4 people gathered and began to discuss what to do in this situation. Ultimately, an airport employee came and took me through the service passages to the bus, and this bus took me alone to terminal 2. It turned out to be such an adventure, perhaps it will help someone draw certain conclusions when drawing up similar routes.
What else would I like to add? When I went on this adventure, I thought through my escape routes. That is, if the airport staff did not transfer me to the right terminal, then I would buy myself a ticket to Morocco via the Internet with a flight from terminal 1. Of course, in this case I would have lost about 180 dollars and 10 hours of time, but for me everything ended successfully.

How to get to Fes from the Airport

From da Fes airport you can reach at least 2 ways by taxi for 120 dirhams = 12 $ and by bus for 20 dirhams = 2 $
In fact I got it even cheaper, apparently, simply took another bus, the stop of which was located near the airport. The fare was 4 dirhams 1 dollar is approximately equal to 10 dirhams. The bus took me to the station, where I took a taxi to get to Medina, where I had booked a hotel. Taxi drivers can pick up more passengers along the way. This is not the first country in which I have encountered such a phenomenon.

Prices in Fes

Hotel prices
For 15-20 euros per night you can rent a good room in a hostel.

Food prices
Tajin costs about 25 to 40 dirhams, which is 2.5-4 dollars, you can fill up with this dish.
Shawarma – 15 dirhams. 10-20 dollars will be enough for the day, if you do not visit expensive restaurants.

Travel prices
City bus 4 dirhams. Taxi on average 20 dirhams.

As soon as I arrived in the old city, a bunch of helpers immediately appeared. But everything around is colorful and interesting.

Old city

Looking ahead, I will say that in Morocco the population that comes into contact with tourists aims to lure money from them by all means. While I was walking to my hotel, a so-called assistant accosted me, to whom I immediately told that I did not need his help, and that I could find my hotel using GPS. By the way, small hotels in Medina are not easy to find. In fact, these hotels are the home of a person who wanted to earn extra money. Well, while walking on the GPS, I saw that I had passed the alley I needed and turned around to return and immediately above the turn into the alley I saw a small sign with the name of the hotel I needed. This guy also saw her and shouted that this is my hotel and that he found it for me. I brushed him off and went into the hotel, when they opened the door for me, he also followed me, asking for money. I specifically told him that he would not get anything from me, after which the employee at the hotel kicked him out.

But this story did not end there. After some time, the hotel owner came. I was treated to tea, I paid for my stay, and then there was another knock on the door. The owner went to open it and he heard my command. I come up, and there is that guy again, demanding that I pay him. I told him again that there was nothing to pay him for and he wouldn’t get anything from me, and if he bothers me, I’ll now turn on the video camera and the entire Internet will see him begging live. After that, his face changed dramatically and switched from English to Arabic. He said a few sentences to the hotel owner, after which, surprisingly, the hotel owner gave him 10 dirhams, after which he left. It turns out this guy finally achieved his goal, he got his dollar.

National cuisine of Morocco

After I checked in, I went to the restaurant to have lunch. Usually, during my travels in different countries of the world, I try the national cuisine of the country in which I am. So this time, I decided to order myself a tagine. Tajine is a dish that is prepared in a dish, also called tagine, which looks like a plate or frying pan with a cone-shaped lid. This lid prevents the passage of steam and the smell of the cooking dish. In fact, almost any kind of meat, chicken, vegetables, fruits can be cooked in a tagine. In this case, they brought me beef with spices and an egg in a special gravy. In this case, I didn’t really like the sweet and sour dish. Although I liked the other variations of tagine that I tried later. The cost of a tagine is on average 40 dirhams, which is about 4 dollars. You can also try pigeon pies in Fez; it is unlikely that this can be classified as national cuisine, but such a dish does exist. I didn’t manage to try it because I learned about it later, although I saw cages with pigeons near small cafes.

Tajine national dish

Meeting my African travel companions

Now, according to the plan, I had to meet two women with whom I and two of my comrades agreed to travel on a travel forum. Evening came, I was at the hotel and waited for them to arrive, although they should have arrived 2 hours ago. It started to rain, but they weren’t there, and I was already starting to worry if everything was okay. After some time, I heard Russian speech, left the room and saw Olga, one of those whom I was supposed to meet, the second one, also Olga, turned out to be lost.
It turned out that when they arrived at Medina, one had to find a hotel and then they had to meet at the appointed place. But for some reason they failed to meet at this agreed upon place. We went with the hotel owner to look for the second Olga in the rain. We again came to the appointed place and walked around all the side streets that were nearby, but to no avail.
I would like to note that looking for a person in Medina is not a rewarding task without a local, you can walk 50 meters from him and not find him. We returned to the hotel, the rain only intensified and turned to downpour. And then, quite spontaneously, I decided to ask Olga if her friend had a phone number, it turned out that she did. And it happened completely spontaneously, so I still had roaming connected. We got through to Olga, she was of course in a panicky mood, this was understandable. Night, Africa, rain, some kind of fortress wall in front of her, some dubious characters walking nearby, either homeless people or drug addicts, and she shouts to us, find me quickly.
Based on the description that she said on the phone, we have already examined all these places. Then I asked her to find a decent-looking person to whom I could give the phone and so that he could explain to the hotel owner where to look for her. She gave the phone to the taxi driver and after 10 minutes we found her.
We go with her to the hotel at night in the rain and she tells me. Damn, my friends told me where you were going, how nafic Africa is, that Greece and Thailand are not enough for you, if you want to go to Africa, fly to Tunisia to sunbathe. And then this happens to me on the very first day, I stand at night in the rain in all this horror and remember their words.
Here I tried to explain to her that anything can happen while traveling and you need to be prepared for it and perceive such things as an adventure. And after a while you will generally remember this incident with humor. At that moment, my words did not make the proper impression. But they had the desired effect when 30 minutes later we sat in the hotel and drank good alcohol bought in duty free. Thus passed my first day of travel to Africa.

Africa - Morocco Fez day two

Sightseeing in Fez - Bab Bou Jeloud gate, 14th century madrasah Bou Inania, Medina, tanners' quarter.

Africa travel - Video of the second day in Fez

It was decided to devote the second day of our stay in Fez to sightseeing, since time was limited, only the old city was taken into account.

Fes old town

Sights of Fes

- the former capital of Morocco, one of the oldest cities in the country, as well as its spiritual center. The city is considered to be a contradiction, and the most... different from other cities in Morocco.
Fez has several main attractions - these are Royal Palace, entry to which is prohibited, so visiting this place is doubtful. Tanners' Quarter, of which, however, today almost nothing remains. You will see what is left of it in the video. Madrasah of the 14th century Bu-Inaniya. And of course, itself with its narrow streets and unique flavor. Medina will be especially interesting for people who are in such a place for the first time.

Gate Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate) is also the entrance to Medina. The gate was built by the French in 1913. Tourist buses come here and travelers love to take pictures in front of this gate. The gate is considered the most memorable in the entire Fez Medina. The original from the 12th century, located next door, is less popular among tourists.

Bab Bou Jeloud Gate (Blue Gate)

Madrasah of the 14th century Bu-Inaniya

The 14th century Bu-Inaniya madrasah is one of the outstanding examples of world architecture. This is the only school in the city that has its own minaret. Today, the Bou Inania Madrasah is a pearl, a precious masterpiece, testifying to the wealth of the ancient imperial city of Fez. This is one of the few madrassas in Morocco that non-believers can enter.

Medina of Fes

The medina in Fez is divided into artisan quarters. One of the main attractions of Medina was the tanners' quarter, where animal skins were processed. Due to the specific nature of leather processing, the area had a difficult smell to bear. To make it easier to stay in such a place, mint sprigs were given out. Today, almost nothing remains of the leather tanning place; now either a hotel or a restaurant is being built in this place. Getting ahead of myself, I will say that I visited leather processing places in Marrakech. I can note that the place is very colorful, largely due to the smell spread in the areas where the leather is processed.
And of course the Medina itself is a tourist attraction. Here you just need to walk around, look, buy something, talk to people in order to feel the essence of this place. But the Medina is designed so it’s very easy to get lost here, and even GPS will be a weak assistant here, since many streets are simply not marked on the map. In this case, for a certain fee, assistants will help you find your way, who will periodically approach you or use navigators to go outside the Medina, take a taxi and get to the desired place.

Medina of Fes

Fes conclusions

Fes is definitely an interesting and distinctive city. The medina of Fes is probably the most authentic in all of Morocco. The only thing that spoils the impression are the pestering assistants, but in Marrakesh they are even more impudent, so you just have to accept it and stick to your line of behavior. It was disappointing that the leather workshops were destroyed. Now they are building there, either a hotel or a restaurant.

How many days to allocate to Fes: 2-3 days is enough for Fes as one of the travel destinations.

In conclusion, I suggest you take another video tour of Fes

Fes

Fes is an ancient Moroccan city, one of the main centers of Islamic culture in North Africa. Its name comes either from “fez” or “fes” - a popular headdress, or from “fas” - “right bank”. Fez is one of the four largest cities in Morocco, behind only Casablanca, Rabat and Marrakech. The city is located in the Mediterranean climate zone, so it is hot in summer and cool and humid in winter. Also, the climate of Fez is characterized by sharp temperature tales and pronounced seasonality, which is due to the proximity of the Atlas Mountains.

Fez is clearly divided into three parts:

Fes el Bali is an ancient quarter dating back to the ninth century and a large pedestrian area;

Fes Jdid is the second medina (this word refers to the old walled parts of the city in the Muslim world), founded in the thirteenth century;

New Fes, the construction of which began in 1916 and was carried out according to the rules of European urban planning.

The first mention of Fez dates back to 800 and is associated with the sultans of the Idrisid family. Under the next Almoravid dynasty, the city flourished and became one of the largest commercial and cultural centers of the Islamic world. It is not surprising that at this time Fez became the capital of Morocco and received such loud unofficial names as “Mecca of the West” and “Athens of Africa”.

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The city was distinguished by its motley composition: Muslims from different countries of North Africa, Moriscos (Spanish Muslims) and Jews lived here. In the sixteenth century, Fez, like many other Moroccan cities, was conquered by the Ottoman Empire and lost its status as a capital. But the city developed even in the status of a vassal: Fez turned into the main market of North Africa, where streams of buyers flocked from all over the region. The city once again served as the Moroccan capital, but after 1912 Fez lost this title.

The ideal time to visit Fez is late May - early June, as the International Festival of Sacred Music is held here at this time. Thousands of musicians from Muslim communities around the world come to the city. The festival week program includes a variety of concerts and performances: you can enjoy the hypnotizing music of the Berbers, sacred hymns of Hindustan, burning Arab-Andalusian melodies and sacred dances of Sufi dervishes.

How to get there

The best way to get to Fez is by plane and fly from London, Paris, Frankfurt am Main, Milan, Madrid and other major cities.

Russian airlines do not offer this route, so you will have to fly from Moscow or St. Petersburg with a transfer. If tourists want to visit not only Fes, but also other Moroccan cities, then it is better to travel by plane to Casablinka or Rabat, and then take the train that will take you to the ancient city.

If travelers arrive at Fez airport, then information on how to get to the city will be useful. The best option is to take bus number 16, which runs every half hour between the airport and Fez.

Attractions

Fes is an ancient Muslim city, where every stone breathes antiquity. The most interesting part of this cultural center is the old medina of Fes el Bali, where tourists can easily get lost: there are more than nine thousand streets and alleys. Fes el Bali is home to such notable sites as the palace square and the royal palace, the monumental Beb Dekaken gate and beautiful gardens.

Fes is famous for jewelry and interior items made from copper. Tourists can get acquainted with this interesting craft by visiting Piazza Seffarine, where craftsmen make wonderful things in front of travelers: bowls, candlesticks and works of art.

Another trade to keep in mind when visiting Fez is leatherworking. In the Moroccan city you can find hundreds of active workshops where, as in ancient times, leather is processed and dyed.

An interesting fact is the use of exclusively natural ingredients in all manipulations with the material. The tanners' area will be of interest not only to history buffs who want to learn the intricacies of the national craft, but also to shopping fans. Here you can buy clothes, bags and shoes at affordable prices and even order the production of accessories.

Fez is home to many religious sites: there are more than 800 mosques alone. The Andalusian Mosque, built at the beginning of the fourteenth century, deserves priority attention. This building is rightfully considered one of the most beautiful buildings in Fez. The Andalusian mosque pleases the eye with its facade, painted in white and green colors, and its original interior design.

Al-Qaraween University is the oldest university in the world based on existing educational institutions. Interestingly, it was founded in 859 by a woman named Fatima al-Fihri.

Al-Qaraween University has been producing qualified theologians who have made significant contributions to Muslim culture for over a thousand years. The vast majority of Moroccan political figures, past and present, graduated from this particular educational institution. Tourists are primarily attracted by the mosque located on the territory of the university. The religious building is the largest in North Africa: it can accommodate more than twenty thousand believers at a time.

The Bab Bou Jeloud Gate is the symbol of the city of Fez. This beautiful architectural monument performs an important function: the gate is the entrance to Fes al-Bali.

The Bab Bou Jeloud gate, shimmering in white and blue shades and decorated with national ornaments, has been the hallmark of the city for more than a hundred years.

Near the gate is the Bu-Inanya madrasah, another prestigious educational institution opened in the fourteenth century. Anyone can stroll through the courtyard of Bu Inanya and admire the beauty of the rich interior.

The House of Dar el Magan is a unique historical building in Fez, decorated with a water clock. The principle of operation of the mechanism still remains a mystery: they have tried to “fix” the watch more than once, but it continues to work in some kind of incomprehensible rhythm. This feature attracts many tourists here, trying, if not to solve the puzzle, then at least to contemplate the mechanical wonder.

Visitors to Fez should definitely check out the Dar el Batha Museum. The cultural center is located in a beautiful Moorish palace of the nineteenth century.

There is a rich collection of exhibits dedicated to the art of Morocco. Tourists can view antique carpets, paintings and ceramics. There is an excellent garden near the museum, a walk through which will be a pleasant end to the excursion.

Currency

The Moroccan Dirham (MAD) is the currency of the North African country. The abbreviation of the currency leads English-speaking tourists to strange associations: “mad” translates as “crazy” or “crazy.”

It is clear that this is just a funny coincidence. In addition, the abbreviation “mad” is rarely used by traders: it is preferred to “Dh” (short for “dirham”). Moroccan currency consists of 100 centimes, which exist in the form of coins.

The Moroccan dirham exchange rate is relatively stable: at the beginning of 2018, one US dollar could buy about 10 dirhams.

Morocco has a very interesting 25 dirham banknote. Its peculiarity lies in its vertical rather than horizontal orientation. Moreover, such banknotes are made from a combination of paper and plastic. Thanks to these “oddities”, vertical banknotes have become the cherished dream of collectors. Therefore, tourists can bring it as a souvenir if, of course, they are lucky enough to find a banknote in Fez.

Food

Morocco is a country in Africa located at the crossroads of trade routes. Therefore, the national cuisine of Fez has absorbed the influences of different cultures, which are intricately mixed with each other. Before every meal in Morocco, mezes are served - local snacks.

For example, “hummus” is a puree prepared with the addition of garlic, lemon juice and oil. After appetizers, they bring out a variety of salads with “hobs” - spiced bread. The most popular salad in Fez is made from cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, olives and potatoes. Moroccans love soups: the most common are harira (lamb soup with beans, vegetables and turmeric) and chorba (a local variation of spiced chicken broth).

The real gastronomic delights of Fez are tagine and couscous. The first dish is prepared in a special conical-shaped pot. In a vessel, the ingredients - lamb, chicken or fish with vegetables and spices - are simmered over low heat and turned into a traditional Moroccan delicacy. Couscous is a grain made from flour. The process of preparing the dish is long: first, the meat and vegetables are slowly boiled in the broth, and then they begin to prepare the couscous separately, and just before serving, everything is mixed. An interesting version of the national dish is the “seven vegetables”: vegetables can be different, but there must be seven of them, since this number, according to Moroccans, brings good luck.

Fish and seafood are the basis for many dishes in Fez. You should definitely try a variety of sea salads: for example, dishes made from crab or octopus with oranges. Spices are especially popular in Fez, which is why the local cuisine is called “aromatic”. The most common ones usually include ginger, cinnamon, hot pepper, cumin, turmeric, anise and coriander. A special mixture of ras al hanout is widely used here in the preparation of a variety of stews and soups.

The national cuisine of Fez is distinguished by many desserts. Bistiya, also called pastilla, is a popular dish in Morocco. The dish is a pie made from the thinnest dough, the filling of which is chicken meat, sprinkled with lemon juice, onions and eggs. Bistilla is sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar. Tourists are very fond of Moroccan croissants with ground nuts, baklava with honey and nuts, date rolls and local halva called “shebakiya”.

Among drinks, a special place is given to green tea with mint - a “companion” of special ceremonies and family celebrations. They also love coffee with cardamom. Among alcoholic drinks, Moroccans prefer machia - date or fig vodka.

Where to stay

There are many places to stay in Fez at different price points. In addition to the traditional types of accommodation - luxury hotels, inns and hostels - there are special options here - Dar and Riad. Dar can be translated from Arabic as “house”. This option assumes the presence of a courtyard. Riad means “palace” and is unthinkable without an internal garden.

Living in Dar and Riad was previously the privilege of wealthy Moroccans, but now cheaper analogues of this housing have been opened especially for tourists. The “houses” and “palaces” are decorated in Arabic style: high doors, patterned tiles, a mountain of pillows, plants and fountains. Dar and Riad are ideal for immersing yourself in the unique Moroccan atmosphere.

Precautionary measures

Fes is a city with a low crime rate, so tourists can feel safe. But you still need to remain vigilant, as you can meet petty scammers and beggars on the streets of the Moroccan city. Particular care should be taken when handling local currency. When buying souvenirs, merchants may pretend that they do not have change, or try to slip a counterfeit “Berber dihrem” bill, which will then be impossible to pay with.

In Fez, as in other cities in North Africa, begging has long become a way of earning money for the local population.

Tourists need to be wary of accepting the help of “hospitable” Moroccans, as they do this not out of the kindness of their hearts, but for mercantile reasons. But getting rid of such “helpers” is not an easy task: even after being refused, they will most likely again and again offer to give you a tour or show you the location of the hotel.

In addition, pickpockets operate in public places, so you need to carefully monitor your personal belongings.

Map

Fes - map in Russian. Sights and interesting places of Fes on the map.

Karaoui Mosque

Fes - Morocco.

Fes is the religious and cultural center of Morocco, its first capital. Once upon a time there was a Roman settlement called Volubilis, near the ruins of which Berbers settled on the bank of a drying river (the Arabs call such rivers wadi). And in 789, Idris I took a hoe and outlined the boundaries of the future city. The city was named Madinat al-Fas (“fas” translated from Arabic as “hoe”).
And soon Fez began to play the role of a holy city, for it became the seat of the shorf - the privileged descendants of the prophet, who subsequently made a significant contribution to the history of the state. The reign of the Idrisids (789-926) was marked by the spread of Muslim culture among the Berber population of the interior regions of the country that had recently converted to Islam.

But the founding father of the capital of Morocco is considered to be Moulay Idriss II, who in 809 built a royal palace and a mosque on the other side of the river. Gradually, Fez was settled by refugees from Muslim Spain and Ifriqiya. In 817, 800 Muslim families arrived from Cordoba (Spain), and the city began to be built in the Andalusian style. Later, Arabs from Tunisia and Jews from Spain moved here - they all brought with them cultural and architectural traditions. The Jewish quarter of Mellah (from Arabic, “milkh” - “salt”) has still been preserved in the city: in those days, Jews were forced to salt the heads of criminals before they were exhibited on the city walls.

Idris was the great-grandson of Hasan, the son of Imam Ali, who was married to Fatima, the daughter of the Prophet Muhammad.

Having taken part in the uprising in Hejaz (Arabia), Idris was forced to flee first to Egypt and then to North Africa, where the prestige of the descendants of the Prophet Muhammad was high. Here in Morocco, a group of Berber tribal leaders recognized him as their leader.

By the end of the 11th century. Prince Yusuf ben Tashufin (1061 - 1106) united both quarters and within the fortress wall. During the Almohad dynasty (1130-1269), Fez became a religious and commercial center. Mills and workshops of tanners, weavers, dyers, coppersmiths, and potters were built along the river.

The city became especially famous due to the fact that the Qara Mosque win and naho The religious school that ran under her gradually turned hit the croup religious and educational center, real environment non-centennial university. Through this center of culture and education, glory and which thundered from Spain to Senegal, passed almost all the brighten up whether North Africa.

By the 16th century Fez is already one of the largest cities in Africa, its population has reached 200 thousand. At that time, the city was the political capital of a vast state. Medieval travelers wrote about Fez: “Houses are piled above houses, and at their feet flows water that is better than any wine” - they were talking about the river crossing the city, and about the springs flowing directly in the city; “If there is heaven on earth, then this is Fes! This city combines the beauties of Cordoba and Baghdad and is exceptionally harmonious.”
In 1549, Fez was captured by the Saadian sultans, who made Marrakesh their capital. But in 1666, new rulers from the Philalid dynasty returned Fez to its former significance. Since the 19th century

In Fez, the bride was delivered to the groom's house in a wooden chest covered with brocade, and was immediately returned to her parents if she turned out to be not a virgin.

Traveling musicians played and sang in the squares, monkey trainers and snake charmers performed, and traders of amulets and birds carried goods. At the bazaar, fortune tellers, sorcerers and alchemists offered their services, and in numerous zawiyas (cells) of the medina, marabouts - hermits - fingered their rosaries and silently prayed.

Among the monuments of Fez, the ancient madrassas of Bou-Inaniya, Attarin, Sherratin and others attract attention. The Bou-Inaniya madrasah is famous for its chimes in the form of 13 bronze bells. These chimes were made by a brilliant mechanic back in the 14th century. Madrasahs played a huge role in the life of medieval Morocco. Initially, they existed at mosques on donations from believers and frequent subsidies. Here they taught the Koran, theological sciences, rhetoric and Islamic law.
Inner courtyard of the Bu-Inaniya madrasah.

Fez is revered as the cradle of Morocco. At that time, the residence of the Sultan was located here.
In 1844 and 1859-1860. Morocco fought wars with France and Spain. The French protectorate, declared in March 1912, saved Morocco from anarchy and possible partition between the European powers. During the period of French colonization, the capital was moved to Rabat.

In the gate opening one can see a panorama of the Old Town, due in the lowland: ancient rusty ocher-colored walls surround there is a cluster ancient houses with flat roofs and a network of winding tidy streets above which, like masts, rise gray from the couple's time hexagons of minarets. There are about 300 of them, many ical.

Modern Fes consists of two parts - the Old City of Fes el-Bali and the New City of Fes el-Jadid. In the northern part of the New Town there is a palace square, where important ceremonies took place in ancient times. It is surrounded by high walls adjacent to the royal palace. On the western side there is an arsenal building (now a carpet factory). On the south side stands the majestic Bab-Dekaken gate of the 14th century. with massive crenellated towers. In addition to them, several other ancient gates have been preserved in the city, including the Bab-Bou-Jeloud gate. Reconstructed in 1913, they impress with luxurious glazed ceramics, painted with intricate arabesques, blue on the outside and green on the inside.

Old Fes differs from the new quarters with its original smell. The fact is that ancient architectural monuments are located in close proximity to craft and shopping districts, as evidenced by the aromas of spices and tanned leather. In patches of squares they sell henna, antimony and flower oils. Berber pottery, modestly decorated with simple geometric patterns, is sold nearby.

Fes el-Bali today is more often called medina (Arabic, “city”). It is somewhat isolated from modern Fez. The city cemeteries, which were located directly outside the city walls, prevented the New City from invading the neighborhoods of Fes el-Bali. This allowed the medina to remain almost in its original form. Now it is a labyrinth of narrow streets and dead ends with a total number, according to some estimates, of more than 9 thousand. The atmosphere of hoary antiquity reigns here. Once upon a time, an official, accompanied by 12 archers, rode around the city on horseback every day to check the quality of products at the market and publicly flog those who tried to cheat customers.

Local residents love comfort and are not devoid of elegance in their clothing. This is especially true for women: marrying a native of Fez means bringing into the house a wife with an easy-going character and golden hands. Women in the city rarely cover their faces, which indicates that most of the population come from Berber families, where women occupy a worthy place. So the Fez people feel somewhat superior to other residents of Morocco.

The main shrine on the right bank of the Fes River is the Andalusian Mosque. Built in the 9th century, it was expanded and decorated in the 13th century. The graceful silhouette of the mosque dominates the surrounding area. The monumental gate, decorated with mosaics, has a magnificent carved cedar canopy.

In the Karaouine quarter, which arose after immigrants from the Tunisian city of Kairouan settled here, is the famous Karaouine Mosque. The building was rebuilt several times until it became the largest mosque in North Africa. It was here that the famous University of Fez was located, one of the oldest in the world, where in the 14th century. 8 thousand students studied. Its unique library contains a valuable collection of ancient manuscripts and manuscripts.
One of the shrines of Morocco is the mausoleum of Idris II. The streets around the tomb are blocked by a wooden beam, which forces passers-by to bow their heads. Entry beyond the ravine is not allowed for non-Muslims: here begins the khorm - a forbidden territory for non-Muslims. Once upon a time, people persecuted by the authorities took refuge in this place and enjoyed the right of refuge in the holy land.

On the border of the Fes el-Bali and Fes el-Jadid quarters there is the Museum of Art and Traditions of Fes, where you can see the best examples of ancient ceramics, magnificent embroidery, carpets, a collection of bronze doors, astrolabes of the 11th-16th centuries. The museum is housed in a palace built by the Alawites in the 19th century.
It is believed that the Fasi - the inhabitants of Fez - have a special character, which was formed through the fusion of many cultures and traditions: the Arabs brought nobility, immigrants from Spain - sophistication. Jews - cunning, and Berbers - tolerance and hard work.

Today Fez is going through difficult times. The old town still amazes visitors with the spirit of the Middle Ages reigning within its walls. But “the soul and heart of the kingdom, as the Moroccans call it) need attraction. Former UNESCO Director-General Amadou Makhtar M'Bow called in April 1980 to save "one of the most glorious cities of the Islamic world - a city of faith and knowledge, a wonderful cultural and artistic center, the Athens of Africa, the center of talent and tolerance." “Fez,” said M. Bou, “must be saved for the sake of its population, for the sake of Morocco, for the sake of the Islamic world and the entire international community, for it is the heritage of all humanity.”

The problem is that after 11 centuries of harmonious development of the city, demographic pressure has upset the balance between man and his environment. The indigenous population of Fes el-Bali began to move to new neighborhoods. Yesterday's peasants, who have no historical consciousness, settled in their houses. In pursuit of comfort, they destroy old houses, causing irreparable damage to the ancient city.

The famous university was long ago transferred outside the city walls, and the madrassas fell into disrepair. Traditional crafts are dying out. The former inhabitants of the medina, hoping to profit from tourists, were interested in restoration and repair work. Now, unauthorized construction has begun within the Old City, seriously disrupting the structure of the medina.

Demographic growth has led to another harmful consequence - water pollution. The river turned into a sewer. For more than ten centuries, a remarkable system operated successfully, supplying water to residential buildings, tanneries and other workshops, mills, fountains and gardens. Now, due to rapid population growth and its own wear and tear, the system can no longer cope with its task.

The lack of jobs has led to the creation of small craft workshops, which are not at all conducive to the preservation of ancient buildings. We are talking, on the one hand, about people who are desperately fighting for a piece of bread, and on the other hand, about the medina, which must fit into our era without losing its former splendor, its memory and soul. As always in such cases, solving the problem is impossible without major investments. But for now, as they say in Morocco, the international community resembles a man who renounced his inheritance in order to avoid paying taxes.