Let's learn popper fishing. Instructions for making wobblers with your own hands Shotgun shooting feeder under the feeder with your own hands

The hot summer begins to lose its strength. Very soon the temperature will drop a little and the long-awaited autumn will come, when fishermen will take up their spinning rods. A huge number of baits will fly into the expanses of water, with only one purpose - to attract the attention of hunting predatory fish. However, you should not give preference only to store-bought spinners, wobblers and other fishing lures. Without much effort or expense, you can make your own attractive tackle that will work great and bring decent catches. Today I want to talk about how to make a catchy wobbler from a beer cap with your own hands, which is suitable for perch fishing.

To make a homemade simple wobbler you will need:
beer stopper;
paper clips;
2 small self-tapping screws;
triple or double hook with a winding ring;
swivel with clasp;
Styrofoam;
wire cutters

The process of making a homemade wobbler with your own hands:
1. Take a beer cap and bite off 3 cloves on both sides as shown in the photo. You should have a tail and a front blade.

2. Then with our hands we squeeze the rounded parts of the iron plug towards each other. The result should be a blank for the future wobbler. You can see it in the photo.

3. Cut off a piece of foam plastic with a stationery knife and place it inside a homemade wobbler. This will help increase the buoyancy of the bait and excellent performance when fishing in a pond.
4. We make a hole in the tail blade and use a self-tapping screw to attach a swivel with a clasp and a hook.

5. We make a core from a paper clip that will connect the tail part to the front part and will be attached to the fishing line. The photo shows how to secure this part of the wobbler.

6. It turns out to be an excellent homemade perch wobbler. Now all that remains is to go to the pond, adjust the tilt of the front blade and enjoy catching striped predators.

You can always change the double hook to a triple hook, add or remove the red plastic tail and, as a result of trials and experiments, achieve trouble-free catchability. I wish all anglers a warm autumn and good fishing. Don't be lazy and make your own fishing lures. Good luck!

Making a wobbler with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems. Any complex pattern consists of simple lines, and a bladed wobbler consists of simple elements: a body, a load, a frame with rings for attaching tees, a blade. You can spend time and effort making such a wobbler in pursuit of several goals.

Saving. Branded wobblers are not cheap. It’s not a fact that a “brand” will work better than a self-made wobbler made according to branded patterns.

Experiment. Testing your work, bringing your ideas to life, using an expensive branded wobbler is not a completely rational approach. It is more advisable to spend some effort on homemade products, implementing your ideas from scratch.

Material selection

First of all, you need to decide on the materials and tools for making bait.

Frame

Tree

alder– hard material;
Linden– hard material, easy to process;
balsa- a hard material, the lightest in weight of plant materials, the only species of the subfamily Bombaxaceae;
cork– soft material.

Synthetic material

Expanded polystyrene. A type of polystyrene foam is a soft material;
PVC– soft material, easy to process.

Blade (blade)

metal (1-1.5 mm);
plastic-polycarbonate (2 mm).

Frame

Usually made of ferrous wire and used to hang tees. You can use mesh wire - chain-link with a diameter of 0.4-0.6 mm.

Shipment

hunting shot;
lead pellets;
lead rectangles and cylinders.

paints and varnishes

epoxy resin;
deck varnish;
waterproof glue;
BT-177 silver, bronze, gold (can be mixed with epoxy resin to form the main color of the wobbler);
waterproof paint for painting the body.

Tools

A fine-toothed hacksaw or jigsaw with a fine-toothed blade.
Electric or hand drill.
Wood drills of various diameters.
Hammer.
File.
Sandpaper No. 0, No. 1, No. 2.
Pliers.
Files.
Vise.

Main stages of manufacturing

The whole process can be broken down into the following steps:

manufacturing of the parts themselves (body, blade, frame);
assembly;
finishing;
tests.

Option 1

primer;
painting the bait;
varnish coating.

Option 2

epoxy resin coating;
spinner painting;
varnish coating;
final fine processing.

Plan for manufacturing a blade wobbler

Case manufacturing

Wobbler drawing

The contours of the bait are drawn on hard paper or aluminum foil - the wobbler is outlined with a pencil - side view, top view, adjusted using a ruler and patterns. You can make an accurate drawing using a caliper, patterns, or ruler. You can use drawings with exact body dimensions from the Internet.
The outline is cut out.
The contour is transferred to workpiece No. 1, outlined with a felt-tip pen or marker, and additional markings are made with a marker to indicate the places of fastening of the shipment, the frame for the tees, and the blade.

It is best to prepare preparation No. 1 in advance. A block of the required thickness from hard or soft material is cut to the size of the wobbler without a blade.

Making a rough model

Using a fine-toothed saw, a rough model of a spatula is cut along a pre-marked contour from workpiece No. 1, made of hard material (You can use a jigsaw if you have the skill to work with a fine-toothed saw).
Using a knife, a rough model of a spatula is cut out along a previously drawn contour from workpiece No. 1, made of soft material.
The corners are trimmed with a knife, processed with coarse sandpaper, then with fine sandpaper. Recesses in the form of gills, eyes, and other profiles are sharpened with a knife and a file.
Smoothed again with zero sandpaper.

Rough model of a wobbler – Blank No. 2 made of solid material, ready for further processing.

Workpiece No. 2 made of soft material is processed as follows:

It is cut in half along the axis with a slight offset in any direction. You will get two halves - one slightly thicker, the other thinner.
In the thicker half, channels are cut for the wire frame, and recesses are made for shipping. A lead shipment in the form of a small rectangle, which is easy to make with pliers and a hammer, works best.
The two halves are processed with fine sandpaper to give the final shape of the wobbler.
Wire frame is inserted and shipped.
The two halves are connected, but until the bait passes the test, they do not stick together. The two halves are held together with a thin rubber band or thin wire.
A slot is made in the head part of the bladed wobbler with a hacksaw at a certain angle to install the blade - the blade. When the blade is ready, it must be inserted into the slot, and the wobbler will be ready for testing.

Processing workpiece No. 2 from solid material.

The channels are cut with a fine-toothed saw for the wire frame and for the blade.

There are many shipping placement options:

Fastening the pellets: in certain places, symmetrically on both sides, on the sides, holes are made with a drill with a depth slightly larger than the diameter of the pellets, the pellets are inserted, then filled with epoxy resin.
Along the axis of symmetry: on the back or abdomen, in certain places, a hole is made with a drill to the size of the pellets, the pellets are inserted, and filled with epoxy resin.
In the material of two halves, in the inner part, holes for pellets are cut in certain places.
Fastening lead cylinders. In the solid material, in the right place, in the side of workpiece No. 2, a through hole is drilled to the diameter of a lead or iron cylinder, then the cylinder is inserted.
The placement of rectangular shipments for soft material has been described previously.

Rattle made from pellets. A hole of the required diameter, larger than the diameter of the balls, is drilled along the axis of symmetry of the wobbler. The balls are inserted into the hole, the hole is plugged with a plug made of wobbler material, greased with glue, and covered with epoxy resin. Or this: a thin-walled metal tube (can be picked up from children's toys or removed from a brush) is inserted into the hole, in which balls are pre-filled.

There are no clear instructions and recommendations on where and how to place the shipment. It all depends on the preferences of the angler. The main thing is to decide what kind of spoon you are preparing in terms of buoyancy, game, and retrieve. In any case, during testing, the weight and location of the shipment can be adjusted. Excess holes are plugged with a plug made of the same material as the wobbler, covered with epoxy or glue, and processed with a knife and fine sandpaper.

Making a blade

A blade of the required size is sawn or cut out of metal (1-1.5 mm) or plastic-polycarbonate (2 mm) along the prepared contour, the edges are processed with fine sandpaper or a file.

Depending on where the main line is supposed to be attached - to the head or to the shoulder blade, a wire frame is prepared. Loops are made in the places where the tees are attached. If you attach the fishing line to the blade ring, it is recommended, in addition to gluing the blade at the junction with the body, to prevent it from being pulled out of the body, to make a through hole in the body and blade, and insert a pin from a thin nail with a cut off head.

A nail slightly larger in diameter than the hole should fit tightly into the hole. In this case, the loop on the wire frame is twisted at the location of the stud pin. The pin will securely connect the body, wire frame, and blade. When loaded, the blade will not break out of the bait body.

The sketch shows that to attach the ring to the blade, it is recommended to make two or three twists in the wire bent in half to form a ring, insert both ends of the wire into the hole of the blade up to the ring, cut off the excess ends of the wire, straighten it, pressing the antennae tightly to the blade, cover with epoxy resin , clean up the sagging marks with sandpaper after drying.

Frame

The frame is made of ferrous wire. A wire with a diameter of 0.4-0.6 mm from a chain-link mesh used for country fences is suitable. Loops - rings on a wire frame are twisted at the points where the tees are attached. In the case of attaching the fishing line to the blade, the first loop in the front part of the frame is made in the same plane as the spoon. A pin - a nail - must pass through this loop, so it is made small.

Assembling a wobbler from solid material

A wire frame with rings is inserted into the channel.
Filled with epoxy resin.
The spatula is inserted. Waterproof adhesive can be applied either to the paddle slot in the body or to the paddle.
In the case of attaching the fishing line to the blade, a pin is inserted in the head part, as described above.
We are waiting for the glue and resin to harden.
We process frozen smudges.

Tests

For testing, a bath filled with water is suitable. The assembled bladed wobbler must be run-in. The fishing line is tied to the spatula either by the head or by the shoulder blade and pulled through the water.

If balancing, play, and buoyancy are satisfactory, then the bait is ready for further processing. If not, you will have to experiment with the inclination of the blade and the release. Excess holes can either be plugged with a plug with glue applied, or filled with epoxy.

After testing a wobbler made of soft material, we proceed to assembly.

Assembling bait from soft material

Let's repeat what was described above:

After testing the bait in a bath of water, remove the temporary fastenings.
Glue the two halves together.
We are waiting for the glue to dry.
Insert the spatula with glue applied into the slot.
We are waiting for the glue to dry.
We process glue smudges.

Finishing

Extra dents, holes, chips are not yet a reason to throw away a homemade product. Defects can be covered with epoxy resin. After the resin has dried, the sagging is treated with zero.

We finally clean up all the defects with sandpaper No. 0.

The body must be ready for painting.

Painting options

First

Before painting, prime the body with any white primer enamel.
The base paint is applied, and after drying the selected pattern is added.
After the paint has dried, deck varnish is applied in several layers.

Second

The workpiece is coated with epoxy resin with the addition of BT-177 paint to give the wobbler the desired base color.

The product is dry and ready for use.

Made from foam or plastic in the shape of an insect

You can make disposable baits in the form of insects, crustaceans, and worms. An insect, for example a cockchafer, is cut out of polystyrene foam (plastic) and processed with a file and fine sandpaper to give it its final shape. Portrait resemblance to the original is not necessary. For predatory fish, the main thing is that your work is in motion.

Two-piece foam fish

You can make a soft composite fish from foam rubber. Usually a two-piece fish is made.

A loop is made at one end of a ferrous wire of the required length.
From the other, sharp end, a blank of the first half of a soft fish cut from foam rubber is strung along the axis.
A second loop is made.
The wire for the other knee is threaded into the lower loop, and the loop is twisted on the second wire.
A foam rubber blank of the tail part of the fish is strung onto the wire of the second bend.
The last loop is made for the tee.
The soft foam parts of the fish can be painted, although there is not much point in this. It is better to pre-paint the foam rubber in some color.

Whether or not to hang a tee in the middle is up to the fisherman to decide. Instead of tees, doubles or single hooks are sometimes used.

Such a fish is used with a lead sinker installed in front of the fish, or attached when fishing with a lead. When moving, if everything is done correctly, it will wag its tail and attract predatory fish.

Useful video

Making bladed wobblers with your own hands at home can not only become an exciting hobby for an angler, but will also save him from significant expenses on purchasing branded products. It will also allow you to bring ideas and plans to life. There is no more pleasant moment for an angler than catching a large fish using a mini wobbler of his own making. In addition to the pleasure of a good catch, a person experiences the joy of creative success.

Knipovich Nikolai Mikhailovich

Zoologist, hydrobiologist. Graduated from Leningrad State University named after Zhdanov, Faculty of Biology and Soil Sciences. I am interested in fishing at a professional level.

Spinning. Lures: all notes, author's notes.

Wobbler. It’s hard to even imagine how popular it is among spinning players. A simple-looking fishing lure that even looks like a toy. But this is only a first and deceptive impression. Gradually, with experience, every spinning angler begins to understand how different all these millions of models produced around the world are and how demanding this bait is in terms of quality of execution and design. Since the time of the first Rapalov wobbler, the structure of the bait has changed beyond recognition: the material - from simple wood to soft plastics, the shape - from the simplest to the multi-component and imitating a living object down to the smallest detail, and technical improvement has long ago turned a simple bait into a complex fishing device.

But no matter how complicated manufacturers make their branded models and no matter where their design imagination takes them, a hand-made wooden wobbler can still compete with any “sophisticated” factory model in terms of catchability. And even though store shelves are littered with millions of plastic models of various designs and shapes, hand-assembled balsa “pieces of wood” are still valued to this day and craftsmen make them with their own hands and fish with them and enjoy both the catching and the making itself.

And for those who like to make things, and in particular for those who decided to make a wobbler with their own hands for the first time, I decided to describe the process of the birth of this bait - from designing the blank to the last layer of varnish. And the highlight of my story will be the availability of all materials - in other words, “a wobbler from what is at hand.” And no complicated tools or devices. Cheap, simple and cheerful. I will write everything about my specific wobbler, and you can adjust the recommendations according to your requirements. So, let's begin.

PROJECT. Since my main target is chub, an actively playing bait is required. Focusing on well-known models, the first thing that comes to mind is, of course, L-minnow 44. And why not? Moreover, I have long been looking for a wobbler with the same body shape, only with greater depth. No problem - we copy the L-minnow shape, and make the blade deep - long, with a more horizontal position and a front loop placed on the blade. We design the location of the loop (distance from the nose of the bait) depending on the required diving horizon - the further the loop, the deeper the wobbler will go. We take out the original from the storerooms and proceed to the search for material for the blank.

MATERIAL. The most affordable and easiest to process is undoubtedly wood. Which? Of course, the type of tree plays a significant role. But believe me, in our case this is not critical. The only thing I recommend to you is to make identical wobblers from different types of wood. And in practice, compare how much this factor influences all parameters. My personal opinion is that the persistent search for some kind of balsa is simply unjustified - it may be extremely necessary in some cases, but I have not yet seen it. So we go to the balcony in our utility corner, where all kinds of wood scraps are stored for such an occasion. I sort through the boards and find a cut piece with the smoothest texture. The fibers run as parallel as possible and along the cut - this is a guarantee that during processing the wood will not chip somewhere in the wrong direction. Here is the material for the preparation - this is pine.

BLANKET. We outline the outline of the original L-minnow 44, cut it out with a hacksaw and trim it with a knife...

... we finish it with a file and finish it with sandpaper. I make the sizes and proportions of the three blanks slightly different in order to subsequently identify the best option.

We mark with a pencil the slot for the blade, the holes for the lower and back loops and the indentations for the eyes (if you will be installing them).

We make holes with an awl and drill them out with a thin drill. Take a stainless steel (dental) wire and twist three loops. Two identical - for the tees and one longer - for the front. The length of the front loop is measured depending on the distance it extends to the shoulder blade.

Next is the crucial moment - cutting under the blade. Measure it a hundred times and drink it once. I recommend using a ready-made wobbler with the depth you need and approximately the same body proportions. You can also evaluate the location of the front hinge for the first time. I make three models at once, with different parameters of the blade and loop location - practice will show which design is the most successful. We measure the width of the cut according to the thickness of the future blade and carefully and most importantly strictly horizontally perform it using a hacksaw blade for metal or a jigsaw.

Next comes the most important part of the wobbler – the BLADE. It can be made of both metal and plastic. Since I have thin plexiglass on hand, I make it out of it. But as an experiment, I also made blades from elastic plastic, in order to be able to bend it while fishing, thereby changing the game of the wobbler. The results were very interesting. Useful for understanding the wobbler in general. You can also make an experimental one - with a thin blade made of soft metal and bend it in the same way during fishing. And it’s not even that difficult to manufacture, a wobbler with a replaceable blade, for example, like the Sorcerer model from Halco. And if you want to experiment, you can add a variable load. But this is a completely different story.

So, we outline the outline of the blade and cut it out with a hacksaw. We process it with a needle file and use the same hacksaw to cut a slot for the front hinge.

We adjust the length of the front loop and the width of the cut in the blade to its thickness. I did not twist along the entire length, but left the front part untwisted in order to make the cut as narrow as possible in order not to unnecessarily weaken the blade. With a minimum gap, the loop is well fixed in the cut and, when subsequently filled with epoxy resin, holds very well.

We finally adjust all the holes for the hinges and the slot for the blade, assemble and admire the almost finished wobbler.

Now the second most important part of the wobbler is the LOAD. I would like to immediately note that what is much more important is not the mass of the load, but its location. Based on the required characteristics in floating properties, we first select the weight. Unfortunately, there is no formula for calculating it and you will have to select the mass using the sample method. To do this, drill holes in the bottom of the wobbler as shown in the photo. You can make them along the entire length, as close to each other as possible, and after adjustment, simply fill the unnecessary holes with plugs from the same wood. The load itself is cylinders made of lead. You can roll them from sheet metal or turn them from solid wood.

Before you start testing in the bathroom, be sure to soak the blanks with drying oil, otherwise the wood will absorb water and all your experiments will go down the drain. We hang the tees on the winding rings and try different options for the location and quantity of weights in the home pond - the bathroom.

If you are satisfied with everything, then consider that your wobbler is almost ready. The final step will be working with epoxy resin. We glue the loops under the tees, lead weights and a blade with a front loop on glue.

The last stage remains - PAINTING. Impregnation of wood with drying oil, which we carried out earlier, is one of the stages of protecting the wobbler from water. The next layer will be a primer layer, which of course also fulfills its painting role - preparation for applying paint. I used automotive primer, which was left over from the time of repairing my first Zhiguli. Dip the wobbler into the ground, dry it and repeat again.

We trim the surface with sandpaper and proceed to the artistic part. If you have the makings of a painter, then there are no problems - we paint with a brush as your heart desires. But if God has not given you artistic talent, then it is better to use aerosols or a spray. I have been painting wobblers for a long time using auto enamel in aerosol cans.

We set a silver tone with “Snow Queen” or “Nickel” paint, pollinate the back with black, and the bottom of the wobbler, in my case, with golden or orange. This is one of millions of options - you have an unlimited field for imagination.

Dry and varnish. The most durable and designed specifically for our conditions is yacht varnish. But if there is none, use any one designed to work in harsh environmental conditions. You can add glitter or a little silver to the varnish for beauty. Finally, you can glue on bulging eyes, which can easily be borrowed from old wobblers that have become obsolete.

Well, that’s all - your wobbler is ready for fishing. How much more interesting it will be for you to catch fish with bait into which you have invested a piece of your soul, I think it’s not worth mentioning. In general, the very process of inventing your own unique design or model, and even making a wobbler itself, is very exciting. Don't be afraid to experiment and imagine. Not long ago I created a wobbler from a completely unusual material - plasticine. And I caught a chub with it! My delight at the first bite is simply beyond words. Believe in your strength and success awaits you. Go for it! Good luck in the workshop and on the pond.

All details and questions on the manufacture and modification of wobers >>>

Making feeder feeders with your own hands ⇩
Advantages and features ⇩
DIY metal feeder for feeder ⇩
Feeders made of metal mesh, wire or galvanized ⇩
Spring feeders ⇩
DIY plastic feeder for feeder ⇩
Feeder made from a plastic bottle ⇩
Feeder made from women's curlers ⇩
DIY cork feeder ⇩
Homemade feeder feeders from photo printing machine filters ⇩
DIY bullet or rocket feeder ⇩
DIY feeder “Method” for feeder ⇩
Do-it-yourself floating feeder for feeder ⇩
Do-it-yourself feeding trough for feeder ⇩
DIY feeder for long-distance casting ⇩
Sliding feeder for feeder ⇩
Do-it-yourself Shotgun shooting feeder under the feeder ⇩
Do-it-yourself feeders for currents ⇩
Making a branch for the feeder ⇩
Installation of feeder feeder ⇩

Experienced fishermen know firsthand the need to have feeder feeders on hand. This is a consumable item that often comes off during fishing, so it’s a good idea to stock up on a sufficient number of these same feeders. And the most important thing is that you can make them yourself, in the sizes and volumes that you need.

Making feeder feeders with your own hands

The process of preparing feeders is quite simple and does not require special skills. Once you get the hang of it, this activity will become very simple and interesting.

Benefits and Features

The main advantage is the low cost of feeders; you do not need to overpay for the purchase of branded products. In addition, you can create absolutely any design yourself, depending on what kind of fish you catch, in what season, and so on.

DIY metal feeder for feeder

The advantage of this option is its cost and availability of materials. Durability and design variability. Such feeders (for example, a spring) open up additional opportunities for the angler.

Feeders made of metal mesh, wire or galvanized

You need to purchase galvanized mesh from a hardware store. One square meter of such a net is enough for about 10 feeders, despite the fact that its cost is minimal.

As a sinker, just as in the case of Cheboryukovka (a little lower, in the section on making a feeder from a bottle, this method is described), you can use lead plates. But it will be more convenient to cast sinkers of the desired shape and weight yourself.

Here is the list necessary for making a mesh feeder:

copper wire
galvanized mesh (it is advisable to choose one that is not too soft, with 5x5 cells)
wire cutters
wooden or metal blocks of any shape (they will be needed to make an even rectangular shape of the body)
pliers (to secure the lead tightly)

Instructions:

First you need to cut small pieces from a large mesh with wire cutters. Rectangles measuring 8cm by 21cm are perfect for creating a rectangular feeder body
Using any block, bend the grid into 5 cells, then 5, then twice more into 5, in the end there are 3 cells left.
the edges overlap each other by exactly one cell each
the resulting rectangle is secured with copper wire. If there is no wire at hand, then fixation can be done using a lead weight, which should hold firmly enough
Now that we have formed the shape we need, it's time to cast the lead. Casting lead is a simple matter, but it requires accuracy and a careful approach. Remember safety: wear gloves and make sure the room is well ventilated during the melting process. Pre-clean and dry the form itself. The most suitable shape will be a flat shape, which will later be easy to bend around the mesh. A budget option is a plaster mold. Using a plaster mold, you can save on buying a store-bought mold, and also adjust it if necessary.
now you need to make a wooden sinker blank
mix the plaster and carefully lower the previously obtained wooden blank into it. In case of any troubles, you can always work with a chisel, changing the unsuccessful shape
after the operations performed, not quite even edges of the shipments may emerge, grooves may remain, fortunately, all this can be easily sanded. It is advisable to make a thickening in the middle part, and the edges will accordingly become thinner, which will ensure a high-quality strong bend
the resulting sinker is installed on a pre-prepared mesh
Remember to attach the feeder to the equipment. The swivel and carabiner can be installed either on a finished structure or during installation

Spring feeders

The principle of operation of the feeder: the internal spring is compressed, fixed with fertilizer (any easily soluble in water, most often pieces of bread) and thrown into the water.

The feeder has 2 holes through which you can push an oblong piece of bread, which will allow you to secure the spring. After a few minutes, the bait gets wet and the spring unclenches, throwing the contents out.

To create such a design with a spring you will need:

copper or brass wire
ballpoint pen refill
pliers or wire cutters
lead sinker
a cylindrical object for winding wire (for example, a bolt)
monofilament

The wire thickness varies from 1mm to 3.5mm. To equip the spring, you need a piece of 0.3mm monofilament, 50cm long.

Manufacturing stages:

the wire is wound around a cylindrical object. Depending on the selected size, from 7 to 12 turns are made, then the wire is bitten off
Now you need to achieve a barrel-shaped workpiece. To do this, expand the diameter of the central turns using pliers, and, on the contrary, narrow the outer turns
then the rod from the handle is inserted into the spring
excess wire and rod are bitten off with pliers
sinker is installed

DIY plastic feeder for feeder

Such feeders are usually created from improvised materials, so you do not need to look for and buy materials in stores, because every home has them. The advantage of this option is its cost and ease of manufacture.

Feeder made from a plastic bottle

Another name for a plastic feeder is Cheboryukovka. It is called after the name of its creator in the mid-2000s - Igor Cheboryukov. Cheboryukovka is famous for its simple design and ease of manufacture, literally from improvised means.

A number of advantages of such a feeder:

floats well to the surface of the water
variability of shape and thus achieving the functional features you personally need (any volume, feed capacity)
ease of manufacture and availability of materials

To create a Cheboryukovka you will need:

plastic bottles from which the body of the future device will be made
scissors
stapler or soldering iron
hole punch or soldering iron
lead sinker
pliers or pliers
paper clips

Manufacturing stages:

Cut blanks for housings in the form of rectangles from plastic bottles. Namely, cut off the bottom, then make a cut along the straight part of the bottle to the neck and cap of the bottle, or to the narrowing or ribbed part (if the shape is unusual). Leave only the straight part, cut off the rest
on the resulting blanks, outline the required dimensions (length and width), mark the locations of future holes with dots
cut the plastic according to the outline
in cases where the feeder is large enough, you can use a hole punch to make holes
Roll the edges of the plastic towards each other into a cylindrical shape. Staple them or solder them
Use a soldering iron to burn holes if necessary.
secure the sinker

On average, sizes vary from 4-4.5cm to 5.5-6cm in length and diameter up to 4cm. When unfolded, the length remains the same, but the width ranges from 11cm to 15cm. Before you start working with scissors, it is recommended to mark the dimensions with a marker directly on the plastic.

The length and width of such plates are selected depending on the required weight of the sinker using a simple formula:

Thickness x Length x Width x 11.34 (specific gravity of lead) = weight, g

Feeder made from women's curlers

It would seem, how can a fisherman use women's curlers? The fact is that they make good feeders, because they initially have a suitable shape and the necessary holes for feeding.

It is also worth noting that the sizes of such feeders are easily adjustable. All you have to do is use the cutters and the optimal diameter is achieved. You should choose curlers made of durable plastic that does not have a strong repulsive odor.

DIY cork feeder

Materials:

plastic bottle cap
copper or brass wire
ordinary paper clip
lead sinker

Manufacturing stages:

cut out pieces of lead plate with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the plastic plug
4 holes are burned in the cork
pull the wire through the holes made and tighten it tightly
4-5 holes are burned on the sides. Of which 3-4 are needed for leashes with hooks, and 1 for a ring

Homemade feeder feeders from photo printing machine filters

Such filters are excellent in all respects to the future design: light and durable plastic, cylindrical shape, mesh structure.

It's quite easy to get them. To do this, you need to contact photo centers. The fact is that filters wear out and are thrown away, you just need to agree that you will take them for yourself.

Materials:

lead sinker
copper or brass wire
directly filters from photo printing machines

Manufacturing:

a bend with an eye is twisted from the wire, which is necessary for attaching to the tackle
cut the cylindrical filter into 3 equal parts, this will become the body of the product
We cut lead plates with the necessary parameters. They are usually 6 to 7 centimeters long and 1 to 2 centimeters wide.
We fix the sinker and wire to the body, bending the edges of the plate

DIY bullet or rocket feeder

They are thrown at distances of up to 100 meters, while they are quite accurate (scatter of about 1 meter), and quiet.

Materials:

A 20 centimeter piece of polyethylene pipe with a diameter of 5 mm and a wall thickness of 4 mm. Preference is given to high pressure pipes
a piece of fine-grained foam

Manufacturing stages:

Using sandpaper we process burrs and sharp edges
in the tube we make 16 holes with a diameter of 1 cm, 4 in a row
using an emery wheel we sand the foam, then we work with sandpaper
Use superglue to glue a piece of foam plastic to a tube
Use a waterproof colored marker to paint the float and make holes with a diameter of 5 mm along the edge of the “rocket” body.
we pass the rings through the holes through which the slings pass. The ends of the slings are tied to a carabiner

DIY feeder “Method” for feeder

A fairly popular and effective feeder model, recognized by many anglers. But at the same time, there is practically no description of the production of the Method on the Internet, despite its prevalence.

Material:

rubber plug from electrical junction box
plastic disposable glass or small glass
lead plate of the required size
flat head screws
soldering iron

Manufacturing stages:

From the cup we will make a container of the desired shape. We cut out the bottom and attach a rubber stopper in its place. To ensure that the structure remains strong, we glue the cork to the cup.
select the desired length of the body, cut off the excess
edges are processed with sandpaper or sandpaper
Cut out 2 circles from the plate, with a diameter slightly less than the diameter of the cup. We place one plate on the bottom, screw screws into the other so that the bait holds tightly

The advantages of the Method are the relatively large volume of complementary foods and the proximity of the hook to the bait. The feeder shows itself both in calm areas of the reservoir and in areas with current.

DIY floating feeder for feeder

When fishing on reservoirs with muddy bottoms, this feeder is best suited. It is also suitable if bottom feeders are ineffective; the fish are poorly fed at the bottom.

Materials:

mesh cylindrical body. The material is not so important; a galvanized mesh rolled into a tube and a metal or plastic cylinder, etc. will do.
carabiner
fifty centimeter leash
construction foam
thickened wire rod. It is acceptable to use part of a motorcycle wheel spoke
heat-shrink tubing

Manufacturing stages:

lace one edge of the cylinder crosswise
fasten the wire rod
fill the edge with foam
remove excess foam that has gone beyond the cylinder
coat the foamed part with glue
we paint the foam in a color that stands out against its background
We attach the clamp to the rod. Heat-shrink tubing secures the rod tightly, ensuring a secure fit
We use a carabiner to secure the collar with the leash, which then needs to be attached to a 25-centimeter loop of fishing line

Do-it-yourself feeding trough for feeder

This type of feeder is used when you need to quickly feed fish in a certain area of the reservoir. You need to design a feeding trough yourself, because you can’t find it in stores.

Any mesh (plastic or metal) and a sinker with the required weight are suitable for production. Shape, like size, does not matter in our case. It is worth paying attention to the bait; it should be easily soluble in water in order to quickly feed the fish.

DIY feeder for long-distance casting

Material:

70 cm monofilament
plastic tube 8 to 10 centimeters long
six centimeter and one and a half centimeter piece of heat shrink tube with a diameter of 2.5 mm and 1.25 mm, respectively
carbine
shock absorber ball
bead
swivel

Manufacturing process:

make a one and a half centimeter loop on the fishing line
We tie the ends of the monofilament with a pigtail
we retreat 5 centimeters from the knot we made and make another one
At the end of the tube we put a swivel
We place a six-centimeter piece of tube on the opposite end
We attach a bead, a shock absorber ball, and a horizontally located tube with a swivel to the fishing line
fix the free part of the tube on a swivel
put a leash on the phone
we attach the outlet, like the clasp, to the leash and the clasp
move the tube to the outlet side

Sliding feeder feeder

It is widely known that different methods can be used to fix the feeder feeder. But it is preferable to choose a method in which the feeder slides along the main line.

There is also a method with special tubes, which includes a carabiner attached to a swivel for subsequent fixation of the feeder. This option is suitable for beginners, as it is very easy to install, but it will not be considered here due to some disadvantages in the design.

Let's consider a more effective option with a regular feeder, plastic or metal. The process of attaching the feeder to the main line:

we make a stopper from cambric
we put it on the main fishing line. If you don’t want or have the opportunity to make a stopper yourself, you can always purchase one at any specialized store. You won't notice much difference between them
next we put on the bead
We take a leash (we choose based on what we catch), on which the feeder is installed. Either with a swivel or through a loop, we attach the leash to the main fishing line. As a result, we get a sliding leash.
install a limiter. We put on the bead and install a small swivel. Now we’ll make a leash from a fishing line with a smaller diameter and fasten it to the swivel using the loop method

Do-it-yourself shooting feeder “Shotgun” under the feeder

Materials:

a film case that will become the future housing for the feeder
double pole spring
ball pen

Manufacturing stages:

bend the edges of the spring by 6 mm
remove the gasket from the metal bottle cap and wedge the spring perpendicularly into the cork
then pour molten lead approximately 6-8 mm thick into the cork. The lead will firmly secure the spring, while the piston will move easily inside the housing
Now in the center of the piston we make a hole with the same diameter as the refill of a ballpoint pen
install the tube into the spring
melt the edge of the rod on the back side of the piston
we clean the tube, since we will stretch the fishing line through it
drill a hole in the bottom of the container, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the diameter of the tube
We fix the piston into the container. Make sure the plunger is flush with the end of the container and the tube extends 5mm or more above the container. Remove excess
press on the piston, which will cause the tube to protrude more. After this, we melt the free edge. As a result, the roller is equally distributed throughout the entire section of the tube.
Now press the piston all the way into the container
in order for the spring to maintain its compression, we will make 2 holes with a diameter of 7 or 8 mm directly in the container from the opposite edges of the piston

Do-it-yourself feeders for currents

Materials:

tin pimples, 9 pcs.
copper or brass wire
swivel
lead plate
mesh from a car filter, it is preferable to use filters from large cars

Manufacturing:

create the desired mesh shape. How to make it is described above, in the description of making a metal feeder. mesh
cut a rectangular hole in the board
we make nine holes, each 3mm deep
pass the swivel through the frame, which is pulled into the mesh
put the resulting frame into the recess, then fill it with molten lead

Making a branch for the feeder

Materials:

fishing line, diameter 0.3 – 0.35 mm

Manufacturing:

cut off about 70 centimeters of fishing line
We form a twist out of it, leaving a small ring. We lay the fishing line in half and use our fingertips to twist the fishing line in different directions.
take the twist and pass the double end of the fishing line into the eye of the fastener. We tie the fastener with a regular self-tightening knot.
tighten the knot tightly, cut off the remaining end of the fishing line
We take the swivel and attach it to the twist from the loop side. We pass a loop through the eye of the swivel, throw it over the swivel, and pass the body of the swivel through the loop. We tighten

Installation of feeder feeder

For complete installation we will need:

feeder outlet
leash lead
fishing tackle

Materials for removing the leash:

fishing line

Making a leash:

we make a twist identical to the twist for the outlet
At the end of the twist we make a double knot, the so-called locking knot. Tighten it tightly, cut off the ends

Making tackle:

Either monofilament or braided line is used
string a swivel onto the fishing line with an outlet for the feeder
put a small silicone stopper on the fishing line
tie the fishing line to the leash outlet
cut off excess antennae

The leash is ready, all that remains is to attach the feeder and leash.

We looked at a variety of options for making feeder feeders. The article provides the most optimal and fairly simple methods. Producing your own feeders will become automatic after a short time, you just have to want it.

This way you will save a lot of money, plus you will have something to do on winter evenings. Treat this activity as a hobby in which you can show your creativity.

Do-it-yourself homemade feeder feeders - instructions, diagrams, videos Link to main publication

Editorial
about the project

Do-it-yourself wobbler release

Anything can happen when fishing. Including hooks. If you lose rubber with a jig head as a result of hooking, then it is unpleasant, but not “fatal”. But what if a rather expensive, catchy wobbler remains in the snags?

The prospect is not a pleasant one. In order to compete for an expensive, catchy or simply favorite bait, you can use such an element of equipment for a modern spinning fisherman as an unhooking hook.

Most sellers of fishing accessories have in their assortment branded factory-made cutters. But it can be much more interesting, and even more useful, for the fisherman to do something himself.

A homemade release is not difficult. The purpose of such a device is to somehow grab a wobbler stuck in snags and pull it out, even at the cost of losing the hook.

1. The most popular homemade wobbler release is a modification of the classic release, which is a heavy ring with a slot (cut) for passing fishing line.

In order to use this release to release the wobbler, it is additionally equipped with several tees.

2. There is also a design in which, instead of a heavy ring, a carabiner is used, which is used by climbers. Several welded long-link chains are attached to the carabiner using a rigging shackle (or several shackles). It is best if the chain links are made of wire with a diameter of 3 mm. And the length of the chain will be about 10 cm.

3. Some fishermen use another type of release, where instead of chains a metal sponge is used, which is used to scrub off burnt marks on the dishes.

The operating principle of these homemade cutters is identical.

On the fishing line with which the wobbler is tied, we put a homemade release for wobblers. We lower the release to the wobbler. Next, we try to hook the wobbler in one way or another.

To do this, you can use tees, a chain, and a metal sponge. After we are convinced that our favorite wobbler is “on the hook,” we try to pull it out, and if we’re lucky, then together with the snag.

This is how you can save your favorite attachment and save a lot of money. As Scrooge McDuck said: “A dollar saved is a dollar earned.” Good luck!

One day I needed to make tiny 20mm floating wobblers. And immediately a big problem arose: wobblers made from ordinary wood (linden, oak, birch) sink, since the wood does not have sufficient buoyancy to keep the winding rings, primer, paint, varnish, blade, and tees afloat. I had to “anoint” it and came up with the not bad idea of making a wobbler from an ordinary cork. It is better to take a solid cork, not a glued one, and turn it into a blank of any shape you like. You can use any branded model as a basis wobbler, you can experiment yourself. I recommend working more with a sharp knife, since this material is quite difficult to sand.

A wide incision is made along the abdomen for the frame. The frame is a piece of stainless wire with loops at the ends. It's best to solder the loops. This will improve reliability. The next step is to glue the frame. The inner surface of the cut is primed with ordinary superglue (supermoment, SuperGlue, etc.). After a few minutes, a frame is inserted into the cut and filled with the same superglue. After drying, we reinforce it with thin copper wire and prime the entire surface of the wobbler with superglue. The distance between the wires is 1.5-2mm. We take dichloroethane (sold in electrical goods stores) and pieces of plexiglass (or better yet, plastic: I use from a ruler), dissolve the plexiglass in a small volume of dichloroethane until a viscous, homogeneous solution is obtained (the consistency of thick sour cream).

Fill the entire wobbler with the resulting solution. I recommend laying a thick layer - it’s better to clean more later than to apply it again. Let it dry for several days. The drying time depends on the thickness of the solution - the thicker it is, the faster it dries. We process the resulting wobbler with needle files and sandpaper. The result is a plastic wobbler with cork insides. We make a cut for the blade and glue it in. I make the blade from plexiglass, 1 to 2 mm thick, depending on the size of the wobbler. We prime the resulting wobbler with PF primer, having previously covered the blade with masking tape. Then we paint.

There are a lot of painting methods, but I use the most common one: using a spray bottle (from the refill of a ballpoint pen and the body of a disposable pen) I apply paint. The paint is an ordinary white or metallic silver auto enamel, to which dye has been added. I take the dyes from permanent markers. After painting I cover it with several layers of varnish. I use two-component to paint cars. We also install the fittings on the pond, where we adjust the play of the resulting wobbler, adjusting the nose loop left and right.